The Wall aka Breakfast Nook Rock Climbing
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GPS: |
39.1916, -107.27801 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 12,286 total · 60/month |
Shared By: | Michael Schneiter on Jul 28, 2008 · Updates |
Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
From Phillip Nyland, NFS, In the past I have reached out to many of you in regards to a peregrine falcon nest site at Lime Canyon (Eagle County, Colorado) on Aspen-Sopris Ranger District, White River NF.
It looks like there is another pair nesting at a different location where people like to climb; Coal Creek near Redstone, Pitkin County, Colorado located about a mile east of the Coal Creek Boulders area. Through monitoring, we have enough information to believe the site is being used for nesting. Because of this, we anticipate initiating a temporary closure of the immediate cliffs and steep terrain surrounding the nest site, which would run until August 1 or earlier if nesting ends earlier. The vicinity and forthcoming restricted area are on attached maps.
Some information that might be helpful to climbers: we are asking folks to avoid the cliffs and steep terrain at this time, in advance of a temporary area closure forthcoming in the immediate future. The area temporarily restricted is about one mile east of the climbing routes known as Coal Creek Boulders, and does not include Coal Creek Boulders. The area is approximately 2,000 feet of cliffs and steep rocky terrain north of Coal Basin Road (FSR 307) at and beyond the winter road closure gate, ending at the unnamed tributary west of the gate approximately 1.3 to 1.6 miles from CO Highway 133. Please avoid being on the cliff faces, top of the cliffs, climbing routes, and access routes in the indicated area. The top of the cliffs are included because we have seen peregrines perching on these. Closure information should be posted by the weekend on the road at the boundary of the restricted area. The closure will end when rescinded or August 1, whichever is earlier.
On the same token, we will be monitoring Lime Canyon for nesting peregrine falcons in the near future and I will reach out with a 2023 status.
It looks like there is another pair nesting at a different location where people like to climb; Coal Creek near Redstone, Pitkin County, Colorado located about a mile east of the Coal Creek Boulders area. Through monitoring, we have enough information to believe the site is being used for nesting. Because of this, we anticipate initiating a temporary closure of the immediate cliffs and steep terrain surrounding the nest site, which would run until August 1 or earlier if nesting ends earlier. The vicinity and forthcoming restricted area are on attached maps.
Some information that might be helpful to climbers: we are asking folks to avoid the cliffs and steep terrain at this time, in advance of a temporary area closure forthcoming in the immediate future. The area temporarily restricted is about one mile east of the climbing routes known as Coal Creek Boulders, and does not include Coal Creek Boulders. The area is approximately 2,000 feet of cliffs and steep rocky terrain north of Coal Basin Road (FSR 307) at and beyond the winter road closure gate, ending at the unnamed tributary west of the gate approximately 1.3 to 1.6 miles from CO Highway 133. Please avoid being on the cliff faces, top of the cliffs, climbing routes, and access routes in the indicated area. The top of the cliffs are included because we have seen peregrines perching on these. Closure information should be posted by the weekend on the road at the boundary of the restricted area. The closure will end when rescinded or August 1, whichever is earlier.
On the same token, we will be monitoring Lime Canyon for nesting peregrine falcons in the near future and I will reach out with a 2023 status.
Description
If toproping is your gig, you're just getting started in climbing, or you're taking a group of new climbers out, this small wall is about as good as it gets. At 50 feet tall the wall is enough of an obstacle while not being intimidating and a range of grades from 5.5 to 5.11+/12- will provide a challenge. Six bolted anchors are easily accessed by a short scramble/hike on the left side of the cliff. The top is essentially a fin that is back-filled, meaning you can hike and scramble behind it, easily accessing the bolted anchors which are often on top of the fin or just over the edge and easily reached (the one exception being the far left where a small, lower ledge is used).
Classic Climbing Routes at The Wall aka Breakfast Nook
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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