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The Canal Zone Rock Climbing
Routes in The Canal Zone
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Cut Loose S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Bear's Choice S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bear's Choice Easy Variation S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Box of Rain S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ripple S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Venice Beach S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Holiday Road S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dirt Trek T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ridin' the Moon Buggy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Berga S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Beasto S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Turkey Jerky S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Snake Eyes S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Walking With A Ghost S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ivy League S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Panama Red S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Route Canal T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gondolier Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wheel, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Made In The Shade S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Aretnophobia S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dynophobia S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Batso Canal S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lambada S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Levada S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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2021 Evergreen Obstruction, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Whopper, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Buckets of Rain S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lame Line T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Elevation: | 5,837 ft | 1,779 m |
| GPS: |
39.75032, -105.24779 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 297,720 total · 1,455/month | |
| Shared By: | Kirk Miller on Jul 21, 2008 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Description
The first crag on the left heading up Clear Creek always caught the eye but was a pain to access. This all changed when JCOS put in a new foot bridge, parking area, and access stairs. With surprisingly excellent CCC rock, the crag holds the shade through the mornings until around 2:00 in the summer and stays shady all day in the fall.
For steeper, more challenging routes check out The Twilight Zone, just past The Canal Zone perched on the hillside above.
Getting There
Park in the first parking area on the left, right after you enter the canyon. Take the stairs down, cross the bridge, and take a left on the Canal Zone / Twilight Zone Climbing Access Trail. When the trail levels out at the canal, turn right and walk about 1/4 mile to the crag.
*As of 9/1/21 the parking lot at the 2nd pullout is open. Walk down the paved trail to a set of stone stairs on the right, there is a well marked sign that says climber access. Climb the stairs, walk 4 minutes down the trail, and you'll be at the far right side of the crag.
Google map link. Follow the orange path!
Eds. This used to involve an approach via one of the steep, loose, grotty gullies beyond the parking lot, descent to the foot bridge, and a steep ascend up a loose slope...no longer!
L->R:
A1. Cut Loose, 11-, 1p, 75', bolts.
A2. Bear's Choice, 10, 1p, 75', bolts.
A2B. Bear's Choice Easy Variation, 8+, 1p, 75', bolts.
B. Box of Rain, 8, 1p, 75', bolts.
C. Ripple, 8, 1p, 75', bolts.
D. Venice Beach, 8, 1p, 75', bolts.
E. Holiday Road, 8, 1p, 70', bolts.
F. Dirt Trek, 9, 1p, 132', bolts & gear.
G. Ridin' the Moon Buggy, 9 R, 1p, 70', gear.
H. Berga, 9, 1p, 80', bolts.
I. Beasto, 10, 1p, 70', bolts.
J. Ridin' the Moon Buggy, 9 R, 1p, 70', gear.
K. Turkey Jerky, 10, 1p, 80', bolts.
LM. Snake Eyes, 11, var, bolts.
M. Walking With A Ghost, 11, 1p, 55', bolts. 2 starts.
N. Ivy League, 10-, 1p, 50', bolts.
O. Panama Red, 10-, 1p, 50', bolts.
P. Route Canal, 9, 1p, 50', gear & bolt.
Q. Gondolier Arete, 10-, 1p, 55', bolts.
R. The Wheel, 5, 1p, 60', gear.
S. Made In The Shade, 9-, 1p, 125', bolts.
T. Aretnophobia, 11, 1p, 70', bolts.
UT. Dynophobia, 11+, 1p, 70', bolts
V. Batso Canal, 10, 1p, 55', bolts.
W. Lambada, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.
X. Levada, 8+, 1p, 80', bolts.
YZ. The 2021 Evergreen Obstruction, 7, 1p, 60', gear.
A. The Whopper, 9-, 1p, bolts.
AA. Buckets of Rain, 8 or 10-, 1p, 45', bolts.
BB. Lame Line, 8, 1p, 60', gear.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Canal Zone
Sun & Shade
Sun Angles Details:
Mostly Shady All Day
Weather Averages
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Photos
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