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Elevation: 8,000 ft 2,438 m
GPS: 40.4032, -105.5182
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Page Views: 3,717 total · 19/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jul 6, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Partial Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/21/24 DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Teen Queens' Crag is a small crag with a few good lines that lies perhaps only 5-10 minutes from the new 'Gem Lake' parking for Lumpy. This is a good option if you only have a short time or weather is questionable. The crag and climb names are dedicated in remembrance of the modern social phenomenon of the most recent 'Teen Queens.' Lindsey Lohan, Brittany Spears, Paris Hilton, Nicole Riche, etc... the crowd of millionaire kids becoming Hollywood screw-ups.

Presently there are 2 routes on the rock. Not great but not bad. Probably as good as anything else that close to the car, and north-facing so as to catch shade until at least mid-day.

The routes are:
1) 'Too Much Too Soon' (AKA: 'Freedom'), a surprisingly good 5.7 rising traverse along a ramp that runs 80 feet to a vertical crack crux and then out along the summit to the top of 'Too Little Too Late' for the rap station.

2) 'Too Little Too Late' (AKA: 'Discipline'), a 5.10 crack to seam to face climb that lies perhaps 200 feet up the shallow gully. The line climbs up from a crack-start near the right-most of two medium pines growing very close to the rock. The crack ends 1/2 way up and leaves a few options for particular stopper or RP placements on the way to the top.

To descend from this crag, you can go to the second on two very large huecos on the West side of the summit, just above the top of 'Too Little Too Late' and find there a 2-sling threaded socket and a steel link. Medium cams can be added to this to create a good belay or TR anchor if desired. In wet weather, these huecos may be holding some water and be less pleasant to belay from.

Getting There Suggest change

Head up north from the new parking lot toward the Gem Lake trail, head right at the T-intersection as for Crescent Wall, but before that comes into view, you will travel within meters along the base of pair of rising slabs on the right. Looking up above the toe of the first, you will observe a crag perhaps 80' in height with a roof formed by 3 blocks jutting out over the NW end, well overhead. This is the toe of "Teen Queens Crag".

The shallow and low-angle gully that extends from the base of this and up between it and the second rock that is passed is perhaps 10 meters wide and very easily walked. Approached from this point, both climbs will be on your right.

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