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Peña de Bernal Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Peña de Bernal

Cara Norte (North Face) 4

Cara Oeste (West Face) 14

Cara Sur (South Face) 14

Care Este (East Face) 1

Chichidho 47

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Elevation:	7,385 ft	2,251 m
GPS:	20.74986, -99.94579 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	76,926 total · 368/month
Shared By:	Manny Rangel on Mar 13, 2008 · Updates
Admins:	Ricardo Orozco, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: ACCESS ISSUES Details

Peña de Bernal's South face/town side, is closed to climbing until further notice by the state of Queretaro.

The actual suspension of climbing on Peña de Bernal:

- All routes on the South face are closed.

- The via feratta is closed for ascent or descent, including the rappel.

- The summit is closed by any route, including those from Chichid'ho side.

- You may climb the North side and routes on Campamento Chichid’ho side (although you may not summit).

- This will make climbing Filo Noroccidental impossible since it would be very difficult and dangerous to rappel the route.

Description

"Peña de Bernal dacite is a spine-type endogenous dome that was forcefully intruded through the Mesozoic sequence practically as a solid plug." This huge dome has formed great edges and chickenheads. The climbing includes everything from bouldering to multipitch adventures on usually great rock. Like any rock with new routes be gentle.

The monolith is located at the town of Bernal, and so is the approach trail. It is popular with hikers and climbers alike. The slabby east face is long and fun and the NE side has a via ferrata winding to the top, making for a fun downclimb. More info can be found on xpmexico.com

Chichidho is a hostel and campground located on La Peña's west flank. They also provide access to the climbs on their side of the mountain. You bring your own supplies or plan on eating elsewhere.

Getting There

From the town of Queretaro, drive towards Mexico City along Hwy 57 to the exit marked: Pena de Bernal. Take this road for @ 30 min to the town and the Pena is plainly visible, wander to the back of town to a parking lot and the approach trail. Hike @ 15 minutes to the slabby east face or wander to the backside routes along the rock face of choice.

80 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Peña de Bernal

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 48 ● Bernalina Sport 7 pitches Cara Sur (S Face) > Bernalina Wall
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 6 ● Las Oreads Sport Chichidho > El Capitán Calz… > Shady Side
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 25 ● Via del Padre Sport 4 pitches Cara Sur (S Face) > Bernalina Wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 4 ● Horizonte de Estrellas Sport 4 pitches Cara Sur (S Face) > Bernalina Wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 4 ● Fiesta Veraniega Sport Chichidho > El Capitán Calz… > Shady Side
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 4 ● Del Tal Palo, Tal Astilla Sport Chichidho > El Capitán Calz… > Shady Side
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 39 ● Filo Noroccidental Sport 7 pitches Cara Oeste (W F… > Main Wall
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b 5 ● El Super Pollo Sport Chichidho > El Capitán Calz… > Sunny Side
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b 7 ● La Libelula Sport Chichidho > El Capitán Calz… > El Capitan Corridor
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 10 ● Filo Suroeste Sport 5 pitches Cara Sur (S Face) > Sunshine Wall
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 19 ● King Kong Sport 8 pitches Cara Norte (N Face)
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 11 ● Alas Del Viento (Wings of the Wind) Sport 13 pitches Cara Oeste (W F… > Main Wall
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 10 ● Chasing the Moon Sport 4 pitches Cara Sur (S Face) > Memorial Wall
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 6 ● Xochitl's Batalla Sport 4 pitches Chichidho > Quixote Buttress
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 7 ● El Día del Cactus Sport 7 pitches Cara Norte (N Face)