Just an hour North of Madrid, La Pedriza has to be one of the best granite climbing areas in Spain. Many call it a paradise.
La Pedriza is a big regional park in the mountains outside of Madrid. It is a fairly large park, but inside it's boundaries there is a lot of rock. Although you'll find cracks and face climbing, "Pedri" known for the vast quantity and quality of hard friction climbs. It's rumored that 5.10 sticky rubber was first tested here.
Believe it or not, this place has some of the hardest slab routes in the country. Up to mid 5.13. Be careful with lower graded routes in the 5.9/V range because they can be really ran out. Here you'll find a large variety of single and multi-pitch routes (up to 6 pitches). The normal rack is a set of quick draws and a single set of cams and nuts.
There is tons of bouldering here as well so don't be afraid to bring your crash pad.
Late Fall, Winter and early spring are the best times to climb here. Don't even think of coming here in the Summer.
Final note, the rock here is super abrasive. For cracks bring tape. It's as abrasive or more than Joshua Tree.
Go North out of Madrid on M-607 towards Manzanares Real. Once at the small town look for signs, which are hard to see, or ask someone.
If your coming in on 607, go past the castle, through a round-about and look for the entrance on your right.
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Navas del Rey, Spain
Some must-do it routes are: Sur clasica (6a), Este-Pedro Ramos (6a), West face (oeste) 6c, Tino 6a/A0 7a+,La Aparecida (6c+/A0 o 7b+).
The second in rating is El Yelmo. Awesome Trad climbing in friction. Don´t miss: Guirles (6b)or the scary Galvez (huge runouts, but amazing)...if you lead it, never forget...
If you are looking hard friction routes, don´t miss "El Euro crag" some of the best 5.13´ to 5.14
In La Pedriza exist also some face climbing with holds, in many places called mushrooms (La pared de Santillana, great easy trad climbing...runouts but easy)
Recommended visit: all year round but if you are looking for hard friction routes, only winter. Too hot in summer.
Enjoy!!! more than 2000 routes Jul 24, 2012
Sacramento CA