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Violince Wall Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Violince Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	"Number 3" S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Ferocity S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Fiddler on the Roof S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Hysteria S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	No Frets S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Poker Face Joe S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Rage S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Riot S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	South American Bowtie S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Summer Fugue S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Violence S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Wild Deuces S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Zagreb (Unnamed 4) S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

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Elevation:	5,267 ft	1,605 m
GPS:	32.2365, -104.754 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	18,899 total · 91/month
Shared By:	Monomaniac on Jan 22, 2008
Admins:	Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

The Violince Wall, aka the Warmup Wall, features the best selection of moderate routes in the canyon. The black, grey and tan streaked limestone is of the highest quality, rivaling that of any cliff in the country. The wall faces Northeast, so receives some morning sun, making it a great cliff for warming up.

Routes here range from slightly slabby, to just past vertical, with the occasional roof or bulge. Grades range from 5.8 to 5.11+, with one 5.13a, Wild Deuces. Climbing is generally on thin pockets and edges. Good footwork and balance are essential, but the occasional bomber jug keeps things fun.

Getting There

Follow the main trail from the parking lot, down into the canyon. This trail follows the crest of a descending spur in a N-NW direction. After ~5 minutes, a good trail breaks off to the right. Follow this trail to the N-NE. After ~100yds, a short 2nd class down climb is required (this can be tricky in heavy snow conditions). The trail bends back to the left, to another downclimb. After this second downclimb, the trail heads back to the SE, eventually traversing along the cliff base. A few short steep cliffs are passed before reaching the first established routes, on a long clean, 60-foot vertical panel of black & blue limestone. The first bolted route encountered is Poker Face Joe, 5.11b. Continue another 50 feet along the cliff base to a nice flat area, complete with stone benches, at the top of a small rise.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Violince Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 47 ● Riot Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 37 ● Hysteria Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 11 ● Unknown Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 37 ● Summer Fugue Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 37 ● Rage Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 22 ● No Frets Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 46 ● Fiddler on the Roof Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 13 ● Ferocity Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 11 ● South American Bowtie Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a 14 ● Zagreb (Unnamed 4) Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 9 ● "Number 3" Sport