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Linville River Crag Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Linville River Crag

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bad Monkey T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Casual Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Chimney Man T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Clever Corner T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Creepy Corner T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Crimson Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Default Plan T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Entrance Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Garden Variety T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Gary's route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Hell In A Handbasket T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Hemlock Arete T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	In there like swimwear... T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	It's about Time... T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Jackpot T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Light Thoughts... T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Slim Pickins' S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Switcharoo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Tightsqueeze T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Unnamed T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Vaseline Machine Gun T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:

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Elevation:	2,091 ft	637 m
GPS:	35.89766, -81.90086 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	nbrown on Jan 18, 2008
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See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th) Details

fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…

Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.

Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.

NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.

Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.

Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags Details

The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!

carolinaclimbers.org/conten…

Description

If you are looking for a nice place in the backcountry to camp and climb for a couple days, then this is the place for you. However, it is also pretty reasonable to hike in and just climb for the day. There is fantastic camping down along the Linville river, with a short approach up to the crag, and great swimming holes along the river in this location. The wall faces mostly north, but is fairly well sheltered from the winds. The rock is the same high quality stuff found at Hawksbill. The routes are mostly natural, following fantastic features, including a wild freestanding pinnacle. The cliff is very small, but the quantity and quality makes it a worthy endeavour. Also, of special not: the popular bouldering area is located below the crag, extending northward towards the bridge.

Note: There have recently been a few anchor modifications to some of the routes at this crag, so some of the information listed elsewhere may not be totally accurate.

Getting There

From the west rim (Kistler Memorial Hwy), approach via Connely Cove trail. Upon reaching the river walk north for about 5-10 minutes. The approach trail is off to the left on a subtle ridge just before walking below the lower cliff band (obvious). Follow it uphill for about 200 yards until you enter through the wild chimney seperating the Spire/Pinnacle and the main wall. It should take about 45 minutes to get there. Note: One can also approach the river trail via Spence Ridge Trail. It is longer, but with much less elevation change. Generally, people approaching from the east rim would be better off seeing this route.

21 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Linville River Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 5 ● Switcharoo Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 9 ● Chimney Man Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 4 ● Casual Corner Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 5 ● Hemlock Arete Trad, Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 5 ● Garden Variety Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 7 ● Jackpot Trad
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a 4 ● Hell In A Handbasket Trad