PRINT: Rock Climbing in Pyrite Tower, Southeast Utah

Pyrite Tower

Utah > Southeast Utah > Potash Rd > Culvert Canyon

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

This spire is next to the canyon wall and passed when walking to Gold Bar Tower. This spire has a crack that runs through it, offering two routes to the summit. Both of these routes share the last 15' to the summit. It is unknown if the longer route on the side away from the canyon wall has been climbed.

Also, this route is called 'Hang Nail' in the High on Moab guidebook and was called 'Golden Nugget' on this web page for 10+ years before the real name was discovered.

Getting There

To get to Pyrite Tower follow the rim up canyon staying left to an obvious spire next to the canyon wall above you. Hike is 15-30 min.

Routes from Left to Right

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 18 ● Chimney Route Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 3 ● Fools Gold Trad

● Chimney Route

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad

● Fools Gold

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

From the North side.

Pyrite Tower

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Evan Deis

What does it mean? Aka hangnail? Which is it? FA party should name. Mar 15, 2017

Ben Kiessel
Durango, CO

EJD, if you know the FA party I'd love to hear what they originally called it. Mar 17, 2017

Evan Deis

Do you mean that neither of those names come from the FA? Apr 4, 2017

Ben Kiessel
Durango, CO

That's correct. Matt and I climbed this thing in '07 and found bolts on top so we gave it the tentative name of Golden Nugget since it was next to Gold Bar Tower. 7 years later the book High in Moab came out and had this tower listed as Hang Nail. I'm not sure if that name was from the first ascent party or not so I left both. As I said in the description that I wrote in '07 if some one knew the name the first ascent party gave the tower I'd gladly change the name. Apr 27, 2017

steve seats

Tim Burnet and I did the first ascent of this route after climbing Gold Bar
Tower on about 1999 or so. It is called Pyrite Tower. We started in the chimney. I can't really remember who lead which pitch.
Steve Seats aka Roadie Apr 7, 2018

Anus Herder
Colona, CO

I climbed up the longer route on the side away from the canyon wall, named it Fool's Gold. Not the worst rock quality, not the best. I don't think anyone has ever climbed the face splitter seeing as how much I had to clean off it. It should be a lot better now, the start is a little spicy but its pretty fun crack climbing! Nov 8, 2021