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Bolton Area

Vermont > 1. Northern Vermont
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org DetailsDrop down

Description

Located just 30 minutes from downtown Burlington, Bolton has some of the most extensive options for climbing in the Green Mountain State. If you are new to the area, it is advisable to check with the locals and with CRAG-VT (www.cragvt.org) before embarking on your own. Also, check out the guidebook Tough Schist by Travis Peckham. A new edition was released in 2022!

The stone is green schist and runs the gamut of being extremely sound to being fairly chossy. Know that new routes often take a few years to settle as it's nearly impossible to properly clean some sections of rock. There are tremendous crack routes located here, as well as some amazing gear and mixed routes on the more remote buttresses scattered throughout the valley. There are also plenty of sport routes at Bolton Quarry, Upper West, and 82 Crag and peppered throughout the hills of Bolton. Those who travel here sometimes find Bolton sandbagged, and while it might be a little hard for the Northeast, it's worth noting that our schist is very difficult to read which takes getting used.

If you are amped to climb here, get in touch with some of the locals at one of the climbing spots in Burlington (Outdoor Gear Exchange, Petra Cliffs, or MetroRock) to get the local beta. I've overheard climbers at the local gym say there is no reason to travel outside of Bolton (or Vermont) to climb. This may be a little bit of hyperbole, but there certainly is plenty of stone and adventure to at least entertain the idea for quite a while.

Bolton Crags in a nutshell:

Lower West: Excellent toproping options and 5.10 trad climbs, though some tend to be somewhat PG13 as leads. 5 minute walk.

Upper West: Home to the two best cracks in Bolton and a wide range of sport climbing options from 5.8 to 5.12c. 25 minute hike.

Upper Upper West: Moderate Mecca. Easy sport to moderate trad. 15/20 minute hike.

Bolton Quarry: Moderate to hard sport climbing on mostly quarried rock. 2-5 minute walk.

Carcass Crag: Excellent sport climbing, business starts at 5.11 and goes to 5.12+. 20 minute hike.

82 Crag: Some of the best face climbing in Vermont. Tall 5.10/5.11 climbing and a steep wall of sport climbing up to mid-5.13. 35 minute hike.

Revolution Wall: Backwater climbing in the 5.10/5.11 ranges. 1 hour hike.

Bolton Dome: Newly opened in 2019, the Dome has almost everything. Trad 5.3 to Sport up to 5.13. 10 minute walk.

Bone Mountain: It doesn't get much more remote than this. Excellent trad, mixed, and sport lines 5.7 to 5.12. 90+ minute hike. Good luck.

Pit Crag: A small but fun crag with some good 5.11/5.12 sport climbing. 15 minute hike.

Bog Wall: Its other name is 5.8 wall so you do the math. 10 minute hike.

Getting There

If coming from the north on Interstate 89 take the Richmond Exit (exit 11) and if you're coming from the south take exit 10 and continue towards Bolton on Route 2. Lower and Upper West Bolton climbing areas are located on Bolton Notch Rd while the Quarry, Carcass Crag, and 82 Crag are accessed from the top of Green Mountain Road. Bone Mountain is accessed via Bolton Valley Access Road.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Kevin Ryan just barely sticking the crux of Who's your Daddy, 5.12d
[Hide Photo] Kevin Ryan just barely sticking the crux of Who's your Daddy, 5.12d
Lindsay Peet on the first ascent of Rio Alegro, V0
[Hide Photo] Lindsay Peet on the first ascent of Rio Alegro, V0
Travis Peckham on the first ascent of Encryption 5.12d
[Hide Photo] Travis Peckham on the first ascent of Encryption 5.12d
Jake List on the first ascent of Enter the Dweezel, 5.12c/d
[Hide Photo] Jake List on the first ascent of Enter the Dweezel, 5.12c/d
This album contains the hit single "Sensitive Access". Bolton Dome is visible toward the upper end of the shot. Images of Bolton Quarry have been banned in several states.
[Hide Photo] This album contains the hit single "Sensitive Access". Bolton Dome is visible toward the upper end of the shot. Images of Bolton Quarry have been banned in several states.
Courtney Giles sussing out the moves on Generations, V8.
[Hide Photo] Courtney Giles sussing out the moves on Generations, V8.
Getting ready for the send, Pat Tracy before Roof of Rumors, V10
[Hide Photo] Getting ready for the send, Pat Tracy before Roof of Rumors, V10
Bouldering on the Notch Road, V-hard
[Hide Photo] Bouldering on the Notch Road, V-hard
the view
[Hide Photo] the view
Good Ol' VT, Bolton
[Hide Photo] Good Ol' VT, Bolton
Dave Vuono playing on Bolton's best V2, The Sharkfin.
[Hide Photo] Dave Vuono playing on Bolton's best V2, The Sharkfin.
Unknown 2 pitch 5.6 slab climb at what I was told is Upper-Upper Bolton. Anyone aware of what climb this it?
[Hide Photo] Unknown 2 pitch 5.6 slab climb at what I was told is Upper-Upper Bolton. Anyone aware of what climb this it?

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Chris Duca
Dixfield, ME
[Hide Comment] I think, because of sensitive access issues, at least one of the areas you mentioned (Carcass) shouldn't be added to the database just yet. The 82 Crag, Bolton Quarry (eh-hem, choss pile!!), Wheeler Mt., etc., etc. should be added to MP so long as there are no limiting circumstances that would otherwise tarnish VT's street cred. And I think you're the perfect suitor for this job, Colin!! Apr 11, 2010
[Hide Comment] Looks like you have everything in Vermont covered. Not much more to add. Apr 17, 2010
Chris Duca
Dixfield, ME
[Hide Comment] "Looks like you have everything in Vermont covered. Not much more to add."--David Powers

Don't worry, David, Wheeler probably won't make it up here, anyway...it's way too chossy to warrant any attention anyway...(haha!) Apr 19, 2010
[Hide Comment] Hi Chris, Part of me does not care but the other part loves the adventure climbing aspect. In a previous post you mentioned splitter cracks at this chossy place. Did you find Eagle Point crag? It sounded like you got around the place a bit.
If you or Colin have any bouldering FA info i would like to get it for record keeping. Apr 20, 2010
Chris Duca
Dixfield, ME
[Hide Comment] David,

I agree with you. When it boils down to it, I don't really care one way or the other. Wheeler and the outlaying areas are, however, one of the best kept secrets in NE, without a doubt. Last time I was up there was about 2 years ago, and. upon your earlier recommendation, I did make it up to Eagle Point Buttress. We climbed the Eagle Point Crack, as well as TRing Hot Seat. Both phenomenal lines up some of the best granite around. I did not, however, make it up to the buttress (?) above the Kingdom Crack area. Next time... Apr 20, 2010
Adam Ploof
Burlington, VT
[Hide Comment] Bolton climbing could be getting even better with some help from the community. Check out the Crag VT website for information on the hopeful acquisition of Bolton Dome (AKA the trailer park crag). cragvt.org/boltondomeproject/ Sep 25, 2017
Alan Emery
Lebanon, NH
[Hide Comment] Thanks for posting this Adam. You beat me to it! This is one area I would stare at each time I drove by it, especially when driving south on 89. Soon, my wish to climb it will come true! Join crag-vt if you are not a member already! Sep 26, 2017