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> 1 - Lower Highway
Forgotten Wall, Control Tower & Up The Creek Wall Rock Climbing
Routes in Forgotten Wall, Control Tower & Up The Creek Wall
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A River Runs To It S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Abandonment Issues T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Aerial Combat S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Air Break S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Air Worthy S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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All Washed Up T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Aretes Syndrome S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Black Water T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Blood Book T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Candy Man S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Cat On A Hot Thin Roof S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Collateral Damage S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Don't Grab Here T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Eskimo Roll S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Explorers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Finders Keepers S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fleuger Chimney T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Flight Line 1 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Flight Line 2 S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Flight Line 3 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Flight Stimulator T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Forget Me Not T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Here's my Paddle! S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Jibber Jabber S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Losers Weepers S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Napolean Complex S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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No Tooth Or Consequences S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Non-nuclear Arms S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Old and Creeky S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Omission Statement S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Parting Shot S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Polar Bear Club S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Running With The Bulls S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Skybox S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sundance S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Sweetie Don't Bite S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Trailing Edge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Tributary T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tryptophandemonium S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Use It Or Lose It S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Virgin's Airline S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Watershed S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Where's My Paddle S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Wreckless Abandon T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Elevation: | 5,700 ft | 1,737 m |
| GPS: |
32.35534, -110.71812 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 48,211 total · 234/month | |
| Shared By: | 1Eric Rhicard on Dec 18, 2007 | |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
This wall faces south and can be climbed on the coldest of sunny days. The face climbing is not as crimpy as Windy Point and there are a number of routes that climb through or around roofs.
The Control Tower is at the right end of the wall. It has a 5ft. roof with a crack through it. At least three of the routes involve surmounting roofs. The Up The Creek Wall is 100 yards past the Tower. The areas rock is generally good but it has a bit of fuzz still coming off. You do need to pay attention as there is some stuff around that you want to avoid. If the rock seems bad there is a solid hold to be found somewhere. 40 plus routes from 5.9 to 12-
Many of the routes anchors have leaver biners so all you have to do is clip and lower off. Two routes are 115 feet long and need a 70M rope. Both these routes have an anchor part way up with leaver biners on them so if you have a 60M rope you can still get down. A lot of the routes have leaver biners so you just have to clip in and lower.
Overhead topo for locating routes:
pikaconsulting.com/climbing… (PDF File)
The Control Tower is at the right end of the wall. It has a 5ft. roof with a crack through it. At least three of the routes involve surmounting roofs. The Up The Creek Wall is 100 yards past the Tower. The areas rock is generally good but it has a bit of fuzz still coming off. You do need to pay attention as there is some stuff around that you want to avoid. If the rock seems bad there is a solid hold to be found somewhere. 40 plus routes from 5.9 to 12-
Many of the routes anchors have leaver biners so all you have to do is clip and lower off. Two routes are 115 feet long and need a 70M rope. Both these routes have an anchor part way up with leaver biners on them so if you have a 60M rope you can still get down. A lot of the routes have leaver biners so you just have to clip in and lower.
Overhead topo for locating routes:
pikaconsulting.com/climbing… (PDF File)
Getting There
SQ II Has directions to Kesslers Corner and the Twinkie. The milepost now is 8.6. This is a left hand sweeper that has a slow car lane on the right. Park off the road to the right or a 10th of a mile back at the Thimble Peak Overlook. A trail goes up the left side then hooks back right to the drainage getting you above the falls. If it is cold the rocks near the water can be icy. If it has rained a lot the water can make the approach a bit harder. If the water is barely flowing then hike the main drainage until you are just below the Control Tower then hang a left. If the water is much more than a trickle take the high approach. This route leaves the drainage approach just before you drop down into the wash after traversing the bench you can see from the car. Cairns head up the hill. It is a little steeper than the creek bed but a little shorter. Either way you go will take 20-30 minutes depending on what your conditioning is. If the creek is running getting to the Up The Creek Wall is best done from the base of the Control Tower. Drop down from the base of it maybe fifteen feet. At a belay seat turn left and follow the trail. It goes up and down a bit to avoid the thick stuff but only takes about 3 minutes to reach the cliff.
Classic Climbing Routes at Forgotten Wall, Control Tower & Up The Creek Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Sun Angles Details:
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Photos
![The Forgotten Wall. Notice the two right facing corners in the shade. The big left hand one is Abandonement Issues 5.11 [B,G,C] and the right hand one Blood Book is 5.10 and takes bomber gear.](https://mountainproject.com/assets/photos/climb/106079716_smallMed_1558472206.jpg?cache=1701315160)
All Photos Within Forgotten Wall, Control Tower & Up The Creek Wall
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