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Central Valley

Connecticut

Description

Climbing in Central CT is climbing Traprock! These gorgeous ridge lines have been climbed for decades albeit, with many access issues along the way. The majority of central CT climbing is on private/water company property and is technically illegal. Do your part to help preserve access while climbing in this area, keep a low profile and be smart about your impact and presence. One of the main concerns with climbers is parking along the roads, so be smart.

Traprock Climbing on Google Maps

Traprock areas:
Firewall
Pinnacle Rock
Main Cliff
Rattlesnake Cliff
Orenaug Park
East Peak
Cathole Mountain
Green Wall
Porcupine Wall
The Chin
West Rock State Park
The Garden

Getting There

I-91 splits the middle of CT most climbing areas are quickly found <1hour off this highway.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

J.S. on his first Ragged lead with Augustus on the belay. "If it looks like a hold it isn't"
[Hide Photo] J.S. on his first Ragged lead with Augustus on the belay. "If it looks like a hold it isn't"
Me on Cat Crack
[Hide Photo] Me on Cat Crack
Doug demonstrating textbook jamming on Cat Crack
[Hide Photo] Doug demonstrating textbook jamming on Cat Crack
Near Hartford
[Hide Photo] Near Hartford
Classic Traprock ascent
[Hide Photo] Classic Traprock ascent
Ragged Mountain
[Hide Photo] Ragged Mountain

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] John,

Thanks for adding Ragged Mountain. Hope you will contribute some routes to the Gunks as well!

FYI -- Fritz's name is spelled Wiessner (i before e). Feb 22, 2006
John Peterson
[Hide Comment] After getting chewed out by Sam Streibert for misspelling his name my i and e are permanently reversed. Feb 27, 2006
Eastvillage
New York, NY
[Hide Comment] Nice to see Connecticut on this site. However, climbers new to the area should know that most of the classic lines on the major crags SHOULD be led. As mentioned before, CT has a long climbing history and that history was written on the lead. Yes it's strenuous etc., but that's what makes CT climbing so great.
Mar 19, 2006
john gilchrist
sLC, utah
[Hide Comment] heck yah Ct climbing is fun worth a trip May 9, 2006
Morgan Patterson
NH
[Hide Comment] And apparently, a lot of CT history was unfortunately written on Top Rope too... Aug 3, 2012
Dmadison
Jackson, Wy
[Hide Comment] This is a very vague and general question but I was wondering if a majority of the routes in the Central traprock area require being led on gear? I don't want to show up at a crag and not be able to climb anything considering I don't lead trad (yet). May 5, 2013
Morgan Patterson
NH
[Hide Comment] HA! Most folks in CT TR the crap outta traprock with an occasional lead. May 7, 2013
J.R. Berry
SCL utahl
[Hide Comment] Hey Ya'll visiting this area for a very Spooky Halloween weekend climbing trip, is there any camping near by someone would recommend ?! Oct 15, 2015
Andre N
Northampton, MA
[Hide Comment] Is there a reason other than lack of initiative for the lack of info for Owl's Lair? I was there recently, climbed Serendipity and The Bad. Would love to be able to go back and find another moderate in the area. There is also a heads up about a little (for now) copperhead that seems to be living Serendipity that I'd love to inform others of. Jun 19, 2018
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
[Hide Comment] Climbing at Owl's Lair is not allowed. It is New Britain Water Company property. That's why you don't see anything posted. Jun 20, 2018