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Lilly Bluff

Tennessee > Obed & Clear Creek

Description

This a smaller (Obed Standards), shady crag. However, there is a fine collection of routes, and the walk is no more than 5 minutes. Because of the shade, this is one of the more popular places to climb during the summer.

Getting There

Park in one of the two paved parking lots on either side of the Lilly Bridge. At the west end of the bridge, look for an obvious trail near a bear-proof trash can that heads into the woods. Follow this trail, which intersects the cliff line at a tall, prominent wall. Head right for Lilly Bluff.

Routes from Left to Right

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 2
Rolling Coal
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 2
Rebel Flag
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 4
Neanderthal
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 15
Borderline
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 58
Alien
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 354
Tarantella
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 28
Electric Sky
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 175
Whipper Snapper
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 3
Y'all Ain't From 'Round Here
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 178
Lounge Lizard
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 296
Rocking Chair
Trad, Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 46
Electric Chair
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 1
Piggy
Trad
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 18
Boogie Man
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 163
Clyde the Mega Dude
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 15
Blasphemy
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 17
Blasphemy Face
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 271
Heresy
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 1
Unga Bunga
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 60
Wheatward Bound
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
Backer Spit
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
Junior's BBB
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 2
Giggle
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 5
First Laugh
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 5
Last Laugh
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 3
Crackin' Up
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 12
Aneurism
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Mixed Nuts
Trad, Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 61
Dirty Deeds
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 37
Done Dirt Cheep
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 2
Drive By
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
Organized Crime
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 32
La Familia
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 50
Yakuza
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 107
Gangsta
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 12
Temporary Insanity
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 11
Ode to the Quitter
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 33
Body Hammer
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 42
Egyptian
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 46
Osiris
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 117
Paraphernalia
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 233
Ticks Are For Kids
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 66
Poison Ivy
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 9
Evil Weed
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 51
Ivy League
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 35
Krieg's Crack
Sport
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 1
NC Sport Climber
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 82
Blade Loafer
Trad, Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 9
Hieroglyphics
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 137
Dinosaur Jr.
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 2
Trickin the Weasel
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 23
Motion Sickness
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Rolling Coal
 2
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
Rebel Flag
 2
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
Neanderthal
 4
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Borderline
 15
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Alien
 58
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Tarantella
 354
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Electric Sky
 28
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Whipper Snapper
 175
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Y'all Ain't From 'Round Here
 3
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Lounge Lizard
 178
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Rocking Chair
 296
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad, Sport
Electric Chair
 46
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Piggy
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Boogie Man
 18
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Clyde the Mega Dude
 163
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Blasphemy
 15
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Blasphemy Face
 17
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Heresy
 271
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Unga Bunga
 1
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad
Wheatward Bound
 60
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Backer Spit
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Junior's BBB
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Giggle
 2
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
First Laugh
 5
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Last Laugh
 5
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Crackin' Up
 3
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Aneurism
 12
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Mixed Nuts
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport
Dirty Deeds
 61
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Done Dirt Cheep
 37
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Drive By
 2
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Organized Crime
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
La Familia
 32
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Yakuza
 50
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Gangsta
 107
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Temporary Insanity
 12
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Ode to the Quitter
 11
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Body Hammer
 33
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Egyptian
 42
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Osiris
 46
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Paraphernalia
 117
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Sport
Ticks Are For Kids
 233
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Poison Ivy
 66
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Evil Weed
 9
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Ivy League
 51
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Krieg's Crack
 35
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
NC Sport Climber
 1
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Trad
Blade Loafer
 82
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Hieroglyphics
 9
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Dinosaur Jr.
 137
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Sport
Trickin the Weasel
 2
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Motion Sickness
 23
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Out-of-town crusher pulling through the roof on Whipper Snapper
[Hide Photo] Out-of-town crusher pulling through the roof on Whipper Snapper

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Actually the parking area is a medium sized paved area with lines and everything now. Has been for the last several years. (It's a local favorite. We go there all the time.

KV Aug 29, 2015
Cole Tilson
Tennessee
[Hide Comment] Most people get sucked into the closer side of Lilly, but the best climbing is at the crime wall. So many good routes side by side! Sep 19, 2023
[Hide Comment] Just posting as an fyi but this crag could use some serious maintenance on the roof climbs. I don’t know if there’s an organization or just a group who re bolts but wheatward bound and blasphemy both need new bolts. I’d be happy to lend a hand or donate money to get some new hardware up! Apr 17, 2024