All Locations > California > Central Coast > Santa Barbara > Gibraltar Area

Bolt Ladder Area Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Bolt Ladder Area

L › R R › L A › Z

	Blind Turn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Bolt Ladder TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A1
	California Flake T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Finger Cracks T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Harvard Sugar Scandal S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Squimby T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

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Elevation:	2,599 ft	792 m
GPS:	34.47598, -119.67946 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	6,808 total · 32/month
Shared By:	Matthew Fienup on Nov 17, 2007 · Updates
Admins:	andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This popular formation is immediately adjacent to Gibraltar Road just downhill from the Main Gibraltar formation. The lower part of the cliff is actually a road-cut left behind in the building of Gibraltar Road while the top of the cliff is native rock.

The centerpiece of this wall is the namesake bolt ladder which runs approximately up the middle of the wall. It was established by then Sierra Club trip leader Tim McMahon in 1969. Today, the bolt ladder can be climbed free or by direct aid, although the aging lead bolts do not inspire confidence--most of these bolts are old-school Star Dryvin nail & sleeve bolts.

In addition to the Bolt Ladder itself, this cliff is home to a few other fun climbs. Most notable are California Flake, a moderate crack and face climb up the plumb-line of the wall, and the 5.10 Finger Cracks on the far right-hand side.

Access to the top of the cliff can be achieved using the class-3 slabs and bush-covered ledges uphill and around the corner from the wall. There are two sets of chain anchors accessible from the top. The climber's left anchor has Mussy hooks. The two-bolt anchor for Finger Cracks can be accessed from the climber's right anchor at the top.

Getting There

From the parking pull-outs next to the main Gibraltar formation, walk down the road for about 100 yards. The cliff will appear on your left after the road makes a sharp left-hand bend.