The Barkeater Cliff Rock Climbing
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Elevation: | 2,076 ft | 633 m |
GPS: |
44.25695, -73.8634 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 53,391 total · 255/month | |
Shared By: | Chris Duca on Oct 24, 2007 · Updates | |
Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
Description
According to legend, the Iroquois Indians referred to the Algonquins as "adirondacks", or "barkeaters" because they were forced to live off of bark and buds during the long, harsh winters. It was supposed to be a low-blow to the supposed crude, and not-so useful hunting methods of the Algonquins.
The above description may or may not be true, but it continues to hang around due to how accurately it depicts some of the climbing and many of the approaches in Adirondack park--wild, rudiment, harsh, and long.
Fortunately, The Barkeater Cliff bears only a small resemblance to the above description. Yes, the cliff IS in a remote part of the Adirondacks, but the climbing is very tame, very clean, and ultra manageable. The cliff sits opposite the Sentinel Range, nestled quietly on the backside of Pitchoff Mountain and embodies everything Adirondack climbing is famous for.
For many reasons, this cliff is the perfect place for beginner and moderate climbers; there are plenty of routes in the 5.5 to 5.8 range, the routes are short enough to climb and rappel with one rope, and the gear, for the most part, is impeccable. Classic lines include, Mr. Clean (5.8), Big Bertha (5.6), Fun City (5.7), Yakapodo (5.6+), and Finger It Out (5.10); however, there are plenty of other routes that also deserve to be climbed.
The above description may or may not be true, but it continues to hang around due to how accurately it depicts some of the climbing and many of the approaches in Adirondack park--wild, rudiment, harsh, and long.
Fortunately, The Barkeater Cliff bears only a small resemblance to the above description. Yes, the cliff IS in a remote part of the Adirondacks, but the climbing is very tame, very clean, and ultra manageable. The cliff sits opposite the Sentinel Range, nestled quietly on the backside of Pitchoff Mountain and embodies everything Adirondack climbing is famous for.
For many reasons, this cliff is the perfect place for beginner and moderate climbers; there are plenty of routes in the 5.5 to 5.8 range, the routes are short enough to climb and rappel with one rope, and the gear, for the most part, is impeccable. Classic lines include, Mr. Clean (5.8), Big Bertha (5.6), Fun City (5.7), Yakapodo (5.6+), and Finger It Out (5.10); however, there are plenty of other routes that also deserve to be climbed.
Getting There
Just uphill from the town of Keene off route 73 is a road named "Alstead Hill Road". There is an obvious sign right before the turn, so you won't miss it. Take this road past the Barkeater Inn and Cross-Country Ski Center, and continue all the way to the end of the road. The road eventually turn into a maintained dirt road Just before the Rock and River Outfitters. They recently paved this part of the road, it used to begin at half way but now its more like 2/3 the way up the road before turning into gravel. Park at the end of the road in the Rock and River parking lot.
Follow the Jackrabbit Trail off the back of the parking lot for about a mile, until you see a cairn on the left side of the trail right past a wide wooden bridge. Follow this path through the woods, across a couple of babbling brooks until you reach a house shaped bolder. Go right past the boulder and then uphill for about 15 minutes following the faint trail. You'll eventually come to the cliff with the clean, right-facing corner of Mr. Clean in front of you.
Follow the Jackrabbit Trail off the back of the parking lot for about a mile, until you see a cairn on the left side of the trail right past a wide wooden bridge. Follow this path through the woods, across a couple of babbling brooks until you reach a house shaped bolder. Go right past the boulder and then uphill for about 15 minutes following the faint trail. You'll eventually come to the cliff with the clean, right-facing corner of Mr. Clean in front of you.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Barkeater Cliff
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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