To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments
so you only print what you need.
Boulders - Little Cottonwood
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwood Canyon
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed. Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
[Hide Photo] Lance's slab. Left of the arete start low on small feet, and dance your way up those tiny crystals to a committing and balance intensive last move.
[Hide Photo] Mike Beck and Scott Stoddard 5 foot panoramic boulder map poster - DM me on Instagram @rubbersharkman if you'd like one
[Hide Comment] You can occasionally climb in LCC in winter, but certainly don't count on it. With that said, Momentum for routes and the SLC Front for bouldering are both awesome gyms!
Nov 27, 2010
[Hide Comment] Jason, check out: tinyurl.com/7oo8g3s Utah Bouldering That book covers climbing in Little Cottonwood, Ogden, Joe's Valley, Ibex and Big Bend.
Season here tends to be March - June and picks up again around September - whenever there's too much snow. Climbing in the summer is limited since it gets so hot, so you have to drive up to White Pine or find some really good shade.
Jun 1, 2012
[Hide Comment] Looking pretty good... You might want to borrow a black bible if you can, half of the boulder and problems at WPS are already named.
Jul 26, 2013
[Hide Comment] @Analise, the area across from the Gate is called the Swamp. Not sure what is across from Secret Garden, didn’t see much over there (except the 4 problems in the V8-11 range in the Red Letter Day area).
I’ve found MP to be somewhat lacking in LCC in general, but there’s an iPhone app guidebook for $13 that has served me well to fill in the gaps so far. Also makes navigating much easier
Oct 4, 2020
[Hide Comment] @analise there are some casual boulders near the temple quarry parking lot across from secret garden. There is also a more moderate - advanced boulder higher on the hill called the Overlook. I added “Green Eggs” V4-5 to MP from the Black Bible with instructions on how to get up there. mountainproject.com/route/1…Feb 7, 2021
UDOT has identified two preferred alternatives to address transportation in Little Cottonwood Canyon: the Enhanced Bus Service in Peak-Period Shoulder Lane (i.e. roadway widening and additional lane(s)) and the Gondola.
UDOT is holding a 70-day public comment period from June 25 – September 3, 2021. You must comment on the UDOT site for your comments to be added to the federal registry and considered. Comment here: littlecottonwoodeis.udot.ut…
Learn more about how a gondola and roadway widening will impact LCC climbing here: saltlakeclimbers.org/lcc-ud…
Both the roadway widening for additional lane(s) and the gondola will affect the climbing resource and experience.
The SLCA proposes that before any permanent changes are made to Little Cottonwood Canyon that will forever alter the landscape, a new alternative based on an expanded bus service coupled with tolling and other traffic mitigation strategies be analyzed that includes dispersed recreation transit needs.
Alternatives that physically and permanently alter Little Cottonwood Canyon should only be considered after less impactful options have been implemented and shown not to be effective.
Jul 22, 2021
[Hide Comment] Any recent guidebooks for this area? It looks like most of the bouldering guidebooks for Utah are unavailable or out of print. Thanks!
Mar 16, 2023
[Hide Comment] @Scott I saw the posters in Momentum and thought they looked really good. Can you point me towards a link or something where they are available?
Sep 17, 2024
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Casper, WY
i want to make a ski/climbing trip this winter... Nov 26, 2010
Naples, FL
Casper, WY
check out:
tinyurl.com/7oo8g3s
Utah Bouldering
That book covers climbing in Little Cottonwood, Ogden, Joe's Valley, Ibex and Big Bend.
Season here tends to be March - June and picks up again around September - whenever there's too much snow.
Climbing in the summer is limited since it gets so hot, so you have to drive up to White Pine or find some really good shade. Jun 1, 2012
Small Lake, UT
Its a love-hate type relationship. With that said, here I offer a haiku:
So many great boulders
And such fickle conditions
Don't count on sending
5 good days a year...that's all we seem to get...its over till spring Nov 18, 2014
New York
I’ve found MP to be somewhat lacking in LCC in general, but there’s an iPhone app guidebook for $13 that has served me well to fill in the gaps so far. Also makes navigating much easier Oct 4, 2020
Utah
ACTION ALERT
UDOT has identified two preferred alternatives to address transportation in Little Cottonwood Canyon: the Enhanced Bus Service in Peak-Period Shoulder Lane (i.e. roadway widening and additional lane(s)) and the Gondola.
UDOT is holding a 70-day public comment period from June 25 – September 3, 2021. You must comment on the UDOT site for your comments to be added to the federal registry and considered.
Comment here: littlecottonwoodeis.udot.ut…
Learn more about how a gondola and roadway widening will impact LCC climbing here: saltlakeclimbers.org/lcc-ud…
Both the roadway widening for additional lane(s) and the gondola will affect the climbing resource and experience.
The SLCA proposes that before any permanent changes are made to Little Cottonwood Canyon that will forever alter the landscape, a new alternative based on an expanded bus service coupled with tolling and other traffic mitigation strategies be analyzed that includes dispersed recreation transit needs.
Alternatives that physically and permanently alter Little Cottonwood Canyon should only be considered after less impactful options have been implemented and shown not to be effective. Jul 22, 2021
Utah
We have created a 5 foot panoramic boulder map poster that is available for sale.
We put out a digital guide with KAYA, and hope to create a new guidebook soon.
I’ll add some pictures of the map here. DM me if you’d like one. Nov 27, 2023
Draper