PRINT: Rock Climbing in Creekside, Boulder Canyon

Creekside

Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Tonnere Tower

Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!) Details

FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!

2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.

USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.

From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….

W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.

Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.

The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.

Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.

K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.

K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:

Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.

“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”

Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.

“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.

After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.

The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.

Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.

The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.

It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.

For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….

As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.

From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.

The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.

See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….

Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.

Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…

Description

Creekside is on the north face, down by the creek. The rushing water of the creek makes this a cool and pleasant place to climb in warmer weather. This is one of the most magical and beautiful places to climb in all of Boulder Canyon. Enjoy the unique ambience of this special place.

Outstanding routes include Local Hero and Spirit on the Water.

All the routes in this area are mixed, and require gear in addition to the bolts.

Two routes start just above the creek: Curtain Call, which climbs a slab and merges with Showtime on the second pitch; and Local Hero, a great two-pitch route which ascends the right side of the Showtime pinnacle.

Four routes start right by the creek, and are only accessible when the water level is low (late summer to mid-spring): Creekside Cruise, Liquid Therapy, Spirit on the Water, and Los Pinos (The Pines). Los Pinos can be done as a two-pitch route, or as a four-pitch route which goes all the way to the summit.

From the start of Curtain Call and Local Hero, a dirt path heads left and up to The Garden.

Routes from left to right:

29. Curtain Call, 8+, 2p, gear and bolts. Slab and arete.
30. Local Hero, 10a, 2p, bolts and gear. Slab, roof, and exposed arete.
31. Creekside Cruise, 7, 1p, gear and 1 bolt. Cracks, corner, roof, flake.

The following routes start right by the creek, and are not accessible when the water level is very high (from mid-May to the end of July):

32. Liquid Therapy, 10, 1p, gear and 2 bolts. Bulge, corner, and cracks left of Spirit on the Water.
33. Spirit on the Water, 9+, 2p, bolts and gear. Stemming corner, face, and slab.
34. Los Pinos (The Pines), 9, 5p, gear and bolts. Face and cracks. Can be climbed all the way to the summit.

Getting There

Cross the creek via the tyrolean, or wade or hop rocks if the water level is low enough.

Once across the creek, hike upstream from the tyrolean along the creek for about 100', to a clearing just before the rock wall comes all the way down to the water. Local Hero starts here. Creekside Cruise starts on a boulder by the creek about 30' right of Local Hero. Liquid Therapy starts 10' farther right at a slick bulge. Spirit on the Water and Los Pinos start another 10' upstream at an alcove carved out of the rock by the rushing creek waters.

This approach takes about 5 minutes.

Routes from Left to Right

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 27 ● Curtain Call Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 110 ● Local Hero Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 13 ● Creekside Cruise Trad, Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 15 ● Liquid Therapy Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 57 ● Spirit on the Water Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c 33 ● Los Pinos (The Pines) Trad 5 pitches