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The Garden Rock Climbing
Routes in The Garden
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B Boys, The T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Before The Deluge S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Border Crossing T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crackdown T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dutch Treat T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Fine Fir T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Just Do It T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Showtime T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Smooth Operator T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Storm Warning TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Elevation: | 6,950 ft | 2,118 m |
| GPS: |
40.0043, -105.4063 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 25,839 total · 124/month | |
| Shared By: | Orphaned on Sep 18, 2007 | |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!)
Details
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
The Garden is in the center of the north face, in a secluded spot hidden from the road by large pine trees. There is only one sport route here (Before The Deluge); all the other routes are mixed, and require gear in addition to the bolts. Routes here range in difficulty from 5.7 to 5.11+, with most in the 5.8 to 5.9 range.
Outstanding routes include Before The Deluge, Crackdown, Showtime, and The B Boys.
The leftmost route (Just Do It) has its own anchor. The remaining routes (Fine Fir, Storm Warning, Before The Deluge, and Crackdown) share a 2-bolt anchor, on a pedestal about 65' up.
This common anchor is the starting point for four more routes: Showtime, Dutch Treat, Border Crossing, and The B Boys. All of these routes are mixed, and scale a beautiful, exposed pinnacle with great position. The hardest line in this area is Smooth Operator, 5.11+, which takes off after the first pitch of The B Boys.
From the start of Crackdown, a steep dirt path heads down and right to the Creekside area and Local Hero.
Eds. the beta photo has been deleted by its submitter.
Routes from left to right:
19. Just Do It, 9, 1p, gear and 2 bolts. Face and cracks on the left side of the wall. Lowering anchor with hooks.
20. Fine Fir, 7, 1p, gear and 2 bolts. Climbs past a pine tree 15' up the wall.
21. Storm Warning, 10a, 1p, toprope. Face just right of Fine Fir.
22. Before The Deluge, 10a, 1p, 5 bolts. Bolted face in center of wall.
23. Crackdown, 9, 1p, gear and 1 bolt. Finger crack on right side of wall.
Routes starting from the common anchor atop routes 20-23:
24. Showtime, 8+, 1p, gear and 1 bolt. Arete on left side of pinnacle.
25. Dutch Treat, 8, 1p, gear and 1 bolt. Starts on Showtime, and moves right to cracks in center of pinnacle.
26. Border Crossing, 8, 1p, gear and 1 bolt. Starts on Showtime, and moves right to left-facing corner right of Dutch Treat.
27. The B Boys, 11, 2p, 4 bolts and gear. Steep face, then technical stemming corner and roofs, merging with Border Crossing.
28. Smooth Operator, 11+, 1p, 8 bolts and gear. Starts after p1 of The B Boys and merges with Local Hero.
Outstanding routes include Before The Deluge, Crackdown, Showtime, and The B Boys.
The leftmost route (Just Do It) has its own anchor. The remaining routes (Fine Fir, Storm Warning, Before The Deluge, and Crackdown) share a 2-bolt anchor, on a pedestal about 65' up.
This common anchor is the starting point for four more routes: Showtime, Dutch Treat, Border Crossing, and The B Boys. All of these routes are mixed, and scale a beautiful, exposed pinnacle with great position. The hardest line in this area is Smooth Operator, 5.11+, which takes off after the first pitch of The B Boys.
From the start of Crackdown, a steep dirt path heads down and right to the Creekside area and Local Hero.
Eds. the beta photo has been deleted by its submitter.
Routes from left to right:
19. Just Do It, 9, 1p, gear and 2 bolts. Face and cracks on the left side of the wall. Lowering anchor with hooks.
20. Fine Fir, 7, 1p, gear and 2 bolts. Climbs past a pine tree 15' up the wall.
21. Storm Warning, 10a, 1p, toprope. Face just right of Fine Fir.
22. Before The Deluge, 10a, 1p, 5 bolts. Bolted face in center of wall.
23. Crackdown, 9, 1p, gear and 1 bolt. Finger crack on right side of wall.
Routes starting from the common anchor atop routes 20-23:
24. Showtime, 8+, 1p, gear and 1 bolt. Arete on left side of pinnacle.
25. Dutch Treat, 8, 1p, gear and 1 bolt. Starts on Showtime, and moves right to cracks in center of pinnacle.
26. Border Crossing, 8, 1p, gear and 1 bolt. Starts on Showtime, and moves right to left-facing corner right of Dutch Treat.
27. The B Boys, 11, 2p, 4 bolts and gear. Steep face, then technical stemming corner and roofs, merging with Border Crossing.
28. Smooth Operator, 11+, 1p, 8 bolts and gear. Starts after p1 of The B Boys and merges with Local Hero.
Getting There
Cross the creek via the tyrolean, or wade or hop rocks if the water level is low enough.
Once across the creek, go to the tree on the far side of the tyrolean, and follow a path up left through the woods.
Take a sharp right just before the talus field on a level path heading upstream. Walk past several pine trees to a secluded clearing after 50'.
This approach takes about 5 minutes.
Once across the creek, go to the tree on the far side of the tyrolean, and follow a path up left through the woods.
Take a sharp right just before the talus field on a level path heading upstream. Walk past several pine trees to a secluded clearing after 50'.
This approach takes about 5 minutes.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Garden
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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All Photos Within The Garden
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