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Memorial Day Buttress
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwood Canyon
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed. Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
This large and broad Buttress sits several hundred feet above the Bongeater Buttress. These routes historically been put up traditionally and tend to be multi-pitches. Excellent granite prevails, seemingly even up high on the crag.
Getting There
The Ruckman Guide mentions the best approach to it as via skirting the Cresecent Crack buttress and then heading up and west. Another possibility may be to park at the parking lot on the north side of the mouth of LCC and then ascend up and past the Prowser and Bongeater Buttress until the base of the Memorial Day Buttress is reached. Whichever trail you choose, plan on a good little hike of about 45 minutes to get to the base. It's worth it!
[Hide Photo] unknown climbers on "eyebrow", the 11a finish to memorial day route
[Hide Photo] West slab routes. This is a nice area with a variety of routes...mostly mixed trad and bolts. Good trail now! Thanks for those who worked on it.
[Hide Comment] Someone posted that they like to hike up from the Bongeater side. Do yourself a favor and go from the Hand Jive side because someone cleared a nice path all the way to the buttress.
If you decide to go to the West facing routes, bring some loppers or a small hand saw to clear the 100 yards of infuriating scrub oak tangle
Be sure to weave your way through the huge boulder/cave on your way to the belay ledge for both of those farthest west routes.
Trying to imagine that Jwoo, Happy Jay or MB would have gone up and done the potential 10-20 obvious boulder problems near there, as this is above the inversion, nearly even and just east, across one of the granite spines near one of those quartzite caves.
Jan 18, 2021
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
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If you decide to go to the West facing routes, bring some loppers or a small hand saw to clear the 100 yards of infuriating scrub oak tangle
Be sure to weave your way through the huge boulder/cave on your way to the belay ledge for both of those farthest west routes.
Trying to imagine that Jwoo, Happy Jay or MB would have gone up and done the potential 10-20 obvious boulder problems near there, as this is above the inversion, nearly even and just east, across one of the granite spines near one of those quartzite caves. Jan 18, 2021