Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed. Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
A little bit higher up and to the west from Tower 1 is Tower 2.
One climber who truly loved Hellgate and Tower 2, in particular, and was instrumental in it's development was Mugs Stump. Despite his impressive Alaskan accomplishments, he would frequently prefer to "hit up the Hellgate" first thing after returning to the Wasatch from other worldwide endeavors. His eyes would light up when he would talk about Hellgate....as if it was Moose's Tooth or something!
Again, a great place to beat the heat in the summer, very susceptible to rockfall, natural, from other climbers, and mountain goats lounging above. Sunny and pleasant in the summer months, but probably 20 degrees cooler than lower Little Cottonwood Canyon. In the winter and spring months, beware of avalanches and avalanche control. Please be smart when climbing here.
A helmet is very strongly recommended.
Getting There
Little Cottonwood Canyon. Park as for Main Hellgate and hike up the trail. The approach time is about 15 minutes.
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
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