Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed. Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Sunny, south-facing crag with surprisingly good rock and a very short approach. Local artisan, and veteran choss guzzler, Brian in SLC gives this crag his full endorsement!
Getting There
Drive past Snowbird entry 4 until you reach the HellGate Condos. Crag is located directly across from condos. If you can't find this crag, may I suggest another sport that doesn't require a sense of direction.
[Hide Comment] There are now 4 bolted routes on this wall only a stones throw from the parking lot directly across from the, Green, Hellgate Condos.
The Rock is a very good mix of quartzite and Limestone. In addition to bolting the 2 new routes Greg and Luke's routes have been cleaned up and all 4 are very fun.
The routes from left to right are actually Driver's Ed, Red Devil, Road Rage and Detoured.
Jun 10, 2013
[Hide Comment] i went to this wall last weekend but couldn't find a trail, i'm pretty sure i was at the right location, directly across from the condos but i didn't hike around to look for bolts so i just went to hellgate up the road. i would still like to climb this wall, so any any info would be greatly appreciated. thanks
Sep 8, 2014
[Hide Comment] There is a big gravel parking area directly across from the condos. Go to the edge of the parking area, walk 20 feet through the bushes until you bump into the wall, look up, see bolts, climb. Intruder has the easiest approach in the Wasatch, but this is a close second.
Sep 8, 2014
[Hide Comment] Found a helmet here today (Sunday July 30th). Text me with a description at 801-979-5572 so I can hopefully get it back to its rightful owner.
Jul 30, 2017
[Hide Comment] Fun little sport crag with super easy access and moderate routes. Just an fyi as of 5/22/24 the last links on the anchors are starting to wear in. Still have some life in them but something to be aware of.
May 23, 2024
SLC, UT
The Rock is a very good mix of quartzite and Limestone. In addition to bolting the 2 new routes Greg and Luke's routes have been cleaned up and all 4 are very fun.
The routes from left to right are actually Driver's Ed, Red Devil, Road Rage and Detoured. Jun 10, 2013
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