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The Beast Alcove and Refuse Area Rock Climbing
Routes in The Beast Alcove and Refuse Area
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Alcove Cracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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AP Treat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Beast 666 T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Broken Bones (aka Piledriver) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Brown's Fist T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cerberus T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Effigy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Energy Crisis T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Lower Refuse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Maid in the Shade T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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On Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Reincarnation (aid), aka 0.6 (free) T A3 |
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Welton's Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Whack-A-Mole T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c X |
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Wild T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Wild Women T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wildabeast T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Elevation: | 793 ft | 242 m |
| GPS: |
44.06369, -71.16567 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 30,256 total · 143/month | |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Aug 23, 2007 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
These areas are often listed separately but they share an approach trail and are separated from all other sections of the cliff.
This area is often overlooked. For example I had done almost every classic up to 5.10 at Cathedral before even hiking up to check out this nice hidden corner. People climb here for sure but it doesn't see near as much traffic as the much easier to stumble upon Lower Left Wall. When moderates on the popular walls are packed think about getting on Browns Fist 5.7+ or Lower Refuse 5.8. Or if its hard cracks you are looking for look no further, climbs here range from 5.7+ to 5.13c.
Rainy days can be a drag for crack climbers but here is one little ray of hope. The start of The Beast is normally dry in the rain and offers two 5.10s with a convenient lower off or toprope anchor.
This area is often overlooked. For example I had done almost every classic up to 5.10 at Cathedral before even hiking up to check out this nice hidden corner. People climb here for sure but it doesn't see near as much traffic as the much easier to stumble upon Lower Left Wall. When moderates on the popular walls are packed think about getting on Browns Fist 5.7+ or Lower Refuse 5.8. Or if its hard cracks you are looking for look no further, climbs here range from 5.7+ to 5.13c.
Rainy days can be a drag for crack climbers but here is one little ray of hope. The start of The Beast is normally dry in the rain and offers two 5.10s with a convenient lower off or toprope anchor.
Getting There
Located on a ledge above a slab to the left of the start of Recompense, access this area by hiking toward that route and breaking left up a small trail which will lead you straight to the huge corner that holds Browns Fist. Scramble one ledge up and to your right and you will find your self standing in the belly of the Beast Alcove.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Beast Alcove and Refuse Area
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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