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Darrington

Washington > Northwest Region > Darrington & Mtn Loop…

Description

The climbing area traditionally called "Darrington" is a collection of granite domes in the Clear Creek and Squire Creek drainages south of the town of Darrington. Other climbing opportunities in the area include the "D-Ton Boulders," in the White Chuck River drainage about twelve miles southeast of town, and a crag and some boulders on the south slope of Spring Mountain, about eighteen miles southeast of town. Whitehorse Mountain, immediately southwest of town, makes an excellent ski outing in early season during years of high snow cover. The mountains in the area near Darrington include Glacier Peak, Sloan Peak, Whitechuck, and Three Fingers. There is plenty to do around here.

The mountain valleys around Darrington have a remote feel and, except along highway 530, cell phones generally do not work. The scenery is fantastic, and the climbing is varied. The area has seen steady climbing activity for nearly fifty years but rarely do any of these destinations become crowded. The granite in Clear Creek and Squire Creek features multiple pitch routes on generally clean granite with many leading to a summit. Bolt protection is common but traditional gear is generally required. The bouldering at D-Ton offers a variety of problems, mostly in shade, with a very short approach. Spring Mountain has climbs from one to seven pitches on heavily featured rock, with boulders in deep woods below the cliff. Just a few of the routes and boulders in the area are featured here.

The town of Darrington is changing. Formerly centered around mining and logging, the town now caters more toward tourism and a recreation economy and, in recent years, locals have opened a coffee shop, a brewery, a pizza place, etc. Snohomish County, the Forest Service, and the town have worked with the Washington Climbers Coalition and other recreation and access oriented groups to preserve access and promote recreational use in the area for hikers, climbers, boaters, and horse people.

On the west slope of Cascades, Darrington receives two or three times the annual rainfall of Seattle. The area is heavily vegetated and trees grow even on top of boulders or granite domes. Many climbs may remain wet for a day or two after a prolonged wet period.

Information on D-Ton Boulders and Spring Mountain is available here on Mountain Project. Information about the climbing in Clear Creek (Green Giant Buttress, Three O'Clock Rock, Exfoliation Dome, and Squire Creek Wall) is here as well. A PDF guide is downloadable at www.mattsea.com/Darr.

Note: Bring two ropes, ideally 70m, as many of the pitches (single and multi) here require full length rappels. 

Getting There

Darrington is on highway 530, about 30 miles east of I-5 at the Arlington, Washington exit. All of the climbs discussed here are approached on Forest Service roads, which are generally well maintained but may sometimes be unsuitable for low clearance cars or even blocked altogether by fallen trees or landslides.

The Squire Creek Road (Forest Service 2040) heads out of the old downtown at the west end of the old main street. The Clear Creek Road (Forest Service 2060) departs the Mountain Loop Highway just under three miles from the main intersection with a gas station and mini mart in the center of town. The White Chuck Road (Forest Service 23) departs the Mountain Loop Highway about nine miles from town, just after the turn off at the new White Chuck bridge. Spring Mountain is on the North Fork road, Forest Service 49, which departs the Mountain Loop Highway just before the bridge over the North Fork of the Sauk River.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Close up of Exfoliation Dome from Three O'Clock Buttress.
[Hide Photo] Close up of Exfoliation Dome from Three O'Clock Buttress.
Green Giant Buttress.
[Hide Photo] Green Giant Buttress.
Comb Buttress from Three O'Clock Rock.
[Hide Photo] Comb Buttress from Three O'Clock Rock.
Voodoo Peak and Exfoliation Dome.
[Hide Photo] Voodoo Peak and Exfoliation Dome.
Green Giant Buttress
[Hide Photo] Green Giant Buttress
Comb Buttress (on left) and Three O'Clock Rock (on right)
[Hide Photo] Comb Buttress (on left) and Three O'Clock Rock (on right)
Lots of good reasons to wander around these valleys
[Hide Photo] Lots of good reasons to wander around these valleys
The West Buttress of Exfoliation Dome
[Hide Photo] The West Buttress of Exfoliation Dome
Great views east down Clear Creek from the summit of Exfo. Dome.
[Hide Photo] Great views east down Clear Creek from the summit of Exfo. Dome.
Looking up the North Buttress of Three O'Clock Rock (climbers on Silent Running)
[Hide Photo] Looking up the North Buttress of Three O'Clock Rock (climbers on Silent Running)
Espinosa nearing the two bolts on the route,  and the crux.  West Buttress 5.8
[Hide Photo] Espinosa nearing the two bolts on the route, and the crux. West Buttress 5.8
Windfall on frog creek , 2.5 miles in, marked as unsafe to pass
[Hide Photo] Windfall on frog creek , 2.5 miles in, marked as unsafe to pass

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Matt Perkins
Seattle, Washington
[Hide Comment] As of 7/2010 the updated website address for my partial on-line guide is mattsea.com/Darr Jul 12, 2010
[Hide Comment] Glacier Point Apron, Tuolumne slabs, and the Squamish Apron are mostly glass. Sandstone friction has loose sand grains. But Three O'Clock Rock has outstanding friction properties (haven't been to the other crags yet but I imagine it's the same story there). There is little or no shoe creep on the granite and diorite knobs of Three O'Clock Rock. Jul 10, 2013
Adam McFadden
Portland, OR
[Hide Comment] Had my car window smashed and food/some clothing stolen out of my car here last weekend. Make sure to leave your car as empty as possible. This happened at the eight mile trailhead for three o'clock rock.

I talked to the sheriff and break-ins in this area are not infrequent and there's little to no chance of getting your stuff back when they happen.

Another party saw a silver pontiac (likely sunfire or grand prix) driving out as they were coming in. The driver had a large glove on one hand and was driving a bit erratically. Definitely didn't fit the picture of a typical visitor to the area. Be wary if you see anyone coming in with this description. Sep 4, 2018
T Grump
WA
[Hide Comment] Beware!
After spending a day at 3 O'clock rock we found a large tree blocking the road. Someone had intentionally dropped it across the road with a chainsaw about a mile from the highway.
It might be a good idea to carry tools for self extraction. Caught unprepared, we had to wait for a friend as darkness fell and banjos twanged...
A ranger told me it was most likely the work of timber thieves. Still a bit freaky. May 12, 2019
Lzpup Brewster
North Bend, Wa
[Hide Comment] 6/19/2021 large windfall , that looks unsafe to drive under up frog creek rd 2.5 miles. I think this is blocking access to 3 o’clock and exfoliate. See photo Jun 19, 2021
Andrew Leader
Bellevue, WA
[Hide Comment] According to Curt Veldhuisen on Oct 1, 2021, the 6/19/2021 tree is now cleared: "Exciting while it lasted, but gone now" (from their comment on the tree photo) Jun 3, 2022
[Hide Comment] Darrington is not for the feint of heart. Its hallmark is what many modern climbers would call runout slab climbing. If you’re used to the style and comfortable at the grade this can be no problem, but a newbie pushing grade — take caution; the bolting, while many would say is not dangerous, can certainly take a mental toll on many. In other words, Darrington is often “hardman” climbing: expect runouts on “easy” terrain. “Easy” terrain being defined by whoever that particular FA was. After all, why spend 30 minutes hand drilling a bolt on “easy” terrain? Nevertheless, for those who persist, a unique, wonderful, uncrowded menagerie of climbing awaits. Oct 21, 2022
Curt Veldhuisen
Bellingham, WA
[Hide Comment] Solid advice from Kyle. 'Slap and Pray' on blank stone is not that common, there are usually knobs or edges to work with. And, for climbers experienced on granite slabs elsewhere, the bolting and grades will seem quite friendly. For those with mostly primarily sport experience, most everything will feel PG to R rated. Jun 3, 2023
Trent Williams
Tacoma, WA
[Hide Comment] So, glacier polished granite.... Would the slab routes here be good training for the delicate foot work I've heard is required for Yosemite? Sep 24, 2024
Curt Veldhuisen
Bellingham, WA
[Hide Comment] Trent, if you're looking to climb true 'glacier polish' with scratch marks, Darrington doesn't really have that (Squamish has some). But in general, the rock is similar enough in texture, angle and techniques to get you ready for Yosemite slab. Sep 24, 2024