All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwood Canyon

Gate Buttress Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Gate Buttress

Beckey's Wall Area 33

Dihedrals Area 14

East Gate Buttress 36

Five Fingers Area 8

Heaven's Gate Area 2

Prune Face Slab 10

Schoolroom Area 35

University Slabs 3

Explore this area in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	6,285 ft	1,916 m
GPS:	40.5733, -111.7533 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	512,500 total · 2,365/month
Shared By:	Allen Sanderson on Aug 2, 2007
Admins:	Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

Gate Buttress contains the most popular crags in Little Cottonwood. Routes range from easy 5th class to impossible-to-believe-humans-could-climb-it lines.

See an oblique aerial view here.

Getting There

Drive 1.25 miles up Little Cottonwood Canyon parking at either the lot on the left or along side the right side of the road.

There is a main trail that begins on the west side of the parking lot that leads up to the Gate Boulders where the trail forks. For the Dihedrals and Beckey's Wall take the right fork and head up hill. This branch is rather fragmented and is not always clear. For all other crags continue west as the trail meanders through the revegetated talus area. See the individual crag descriptions for more info on getting to them.

Note: In 1998 through 2000 the area below where the approach trail is located was quarried and is presently under revegetation. Please stay on the climber's trail so it can recover.

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017, Salt Lake City, Utah – The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of
Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an
unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as
the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of
climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder
problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The
recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders
and the local climbing community.

141 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location:	Gate Buttress Change
Type:	to Trad Sport Toprope
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:	then:

Classic Climbing Routes at Gate Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 496 ● Schoolroom Trad 5 pitches Schoolroom Area
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 311 ● Tingey's Terror Trad 4 pitches Beckey's Wall Area
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 748 ● Beckey's Wall Trad 3 pitches Beckey's Wall Area
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 699 ● Bushwhack Crack Trad 2 pitches Schoolroom Area
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 403 ● Callitwhatyouplease Trad Schoolroom Area
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 628 ● Satan's Corner Trad 2 pitches Dihedrals Area
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 99 ● Fingertrip Variation Trad Beckey's Wall Area
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 355 ● Half-A-Finger Trad Dihedrals Area
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 151 ● The Flakes Trad 2 pitches E Gate Buttress
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 195 ● Black and White Frosted, John an… Trad Dihedrals Area
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R 108 ● Stem the Tide Sport Dihedrals Area
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 77 ● To Air is Human Trad E Gate Buttress
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 257 ● Equipment Overhang Trad Dihedrals Area
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 19 ● Split Fingers Trad Beckey's Wall Area
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 18 ● Graying at the Routes Sport E Gate Buttress