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Elevation: 9,313 ft 2,839 m
GPS: 40.57792, -111.6194
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 185,421 total · 857/month
Shared By: Shaun Greene on Jul 28, 2007
Admins: Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane
Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Albion Basin is one of the most beautiful areas in the entire Wasatch. Spectacular views of Devils Castle, Mt Wolverine, Tuscarora, etc etc. A plethora of wildlife, wild flowers, and rock make this a superb summer climbing destination.

 Please walk lightly in this area. I can see access becoming a major issue if the laws of the land are not obeyed. 

Most of the climbing consists of quartzite that can be ascended and descended with a single rope. There are also some nice limestone sport routes within in a close proximity to the southeastern most campground.

With the exception of the Devils Castle routes (listed under Devils Castle) all routes are a single pitch. With very few exceptions the routes are primarily bolt protected. However, multi-pitch mixed gear (trad/sport) routes exist on Devils Castle.

Getting There Suggest change

Drive up Little Cottonwood, through a gate guarded by a nice person giving out trail maps. continue up the canyon, Little Cottonwood continues and eventually turns to dirt. Follow the dirt road until it ends at a campground directly below Devils Castle.

81 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Albion Basin

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 69
Portable Darkness
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 67
The Kind
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 50
The Virus
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 63
POLITRICS
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
 187
Black Streak
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 47
Cough Your Off
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 79
Horns Of Satan
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 85
Girls on Film
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 54
Junk Head
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 70
Anti Hero's
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 81
Shadow of the Blade
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 26
Gothic Pillar
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 44
Ride the Lightning
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 45
Toxic Narcotic
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 28
Tacos Diablos
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Portable Darkness Devil's Castle
 69
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
The Kind Cecret Lake > Green Stash Wall
 67
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Virus Cecret Lake > Whipper Wall
 50
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
POLITRICS Cecret Lake > Creekside Wall
 63
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Black Streak Devil's Castle
 187
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Cough Your Off Cecret Lake > Green Stash Wall
 47
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Horns Of Satan Devil's Castle
 79
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
Girls on Film Cecret Lake > Creekside Wall
 85
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Junk Head Cecret Lake > Creekside Wall
 54
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Anti Hero's Cecret Lake > Creekside Wall
 70
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Shadow of the Blade Devil's Castle
 81
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Gothic Pillar Devil's Castle
 26
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Ride the Lightning Cecret Lake > Whipper Wall
 44
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Toxic Narcotic Cecret Lake > Whipper Wall
 45
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Tacos Diablos Tacos Diablos Boulder
 28
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
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