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Family Crag

Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (01) Calico Basin > Kraft Mtn Area
Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description

Sport crag that's ideal for beginners and gym climbers looking for a first day out that's secluded and easy to find. East facing, late afternoon shade.

Getting There

From the typical parking at the end of the Calico road, cross the wash and head right towards the Monkey Bar Boulder, passing the Plumber's crack boulder after a couple of minutes' hike. Once at Monkey Bars, several trails allow a choice of wash, near the wash, and higher up. Staying out of the wash but near it seems best-you will be entering Gateway Canyon as the walls close in. Walk about three minutes past where you enter Gateway, past a couple of overhanging bolted routes that seem decidedly non-moderate (this is Conundrum Crag). Family Crag faces you squarely and has three bolted routes on it about two minutes off-trail up the hill.

Routes from Left to Right

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 1
Lost Child
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 4
Black Sheep
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 202
Wayward Son
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 213
Family Circus
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 243
Family Affairs
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Lost Child
 1
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
Black Sheep
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
Wayward Son
 202
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Family Circus
 213
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Family Affairs
 243
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Family Crag topo.
[Hide Photo] Family Crag topo.
Family Crag, Gateway Canyon, Calico Basin.
[Hide Photo] Family Crag, Gateway Canyon, Calico Basin.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Christine Gal
henderson, nv
[Hide Comment] FYI -- Handren's Red Rocks guidebook does not have Family Crag separated, it is listed under Conundrum Crag Jan 27, 2009
MN norske
Austin, MN
[Hide Comment] Great area with solid routes for a new leader at 5.8+ to 5.9. The 9's can be fairly sustained and no one is ever here. Cheers. Have fun Mar 17, 2014
Klimbien
St.George Orem Denver Vegas
[Hide Comment] At the far Lefthand side of the crag, far right from “Wayward Son” is a 5.8ish crack. Aprox 70 feet, standard pro to 5”, trad anchor. Oct 18, 2021
[Hide Comment] Family Crag is about a 20 minute walk from the trailhead. Look for a triangular boulder on the trail, edged in chalk . The crag is up and left from this boulder. Jan 19, 2022
Kevin Patterson
Lower Hutt, NZ
[Hide Comment] 20 min walk-in plus a few seconds. How many seconds was that? Oh, about a 1000! Anyway don't follow the GPS coords like I did, or if you do allow about an extra 30min to find the crag, it's about 100m closer to the road end, and to the left of that (now obvious) chalk covered triangular rock.

This is an awesome little crag and well worth the perseverance. After leading right most route (Family Affairs), there is straightforward access to TR the other 3. Sep 28, 2022