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Lisa Falls West Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Lisa Falls West

L › R R › L A › Z

	Creeper, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Mad Millennium S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Red Eye Express S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Superbowl S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Top It Off S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

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Elevation:	7,000 ft	2,134 m
GPS:	40.5748, -111.728 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	9,584 total · 45/month
Shared By:	Ryan Brough on Jul 4, 2007
Admins:	Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

On a hot morning in June, I looked across the canyon from the top of Pentapitch and noticed an orange colored wall just around the corner from Lisa Falls. The sun had just come over the ridge and was starting to bake the slabs on Pentapitch, but the orange-colored wall was still in the shade. In fact, Lisa Falls West is in the shade until noon. It is difficult to lead anything in the noon hour because the sun shines in your face. This would be a good crag for a winter afternoon diversion. The snow would probably make the approach easier. There weren't any indications of regular traffic here, and the trail could use some development. It is nice and peaceful to hear the birds sing and listen to the creek gurgling below. The rock here is an orange colored quartz monzonite that is mostly solid. There are a lot of pockets and broken face holds. There are a few cracks and seams, but most belong to loose looking flakes and pillars that probably won't last very long. Some of the routes here are still cleaning up. There are 6 longer sport routes here ranging from 5.9- to 5.10c. You can spend half a day here and tick them all. It looks like the shorter, steeper right side of the wall may have some route potential.

Routes listed from left to right:

Getting There

Follow the approach to Lisa Falls. Hike through the trees to the west and follow the creek that comes from the north. A faint trail can be found on the west side of the creek (sometimes). It takes about 15 minutes of hiking from Lisa Falls to reach a boulder where you leave the creek and hike to the orange colored wall to the east. Some bushwhacking is required, the rocks in the creek are slick when wet, and there is a lot of loose dirt and rocks. However, it is worth the approach pains.