Questa Dome Rock Climbing
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Elevation: | 9,947 ft | 3,032 m |
GPS: |
36.7948, -105.53448 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 41,712 total · 195/month | |
Shared By: | George Perkins on Jun 17, 2007 | |
Admins: | Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting
Details
This climbing area is shared with raptors that nest on the cliffs. Help us maintain access and please avoid climbing near active nests/ledges that raptors are using. If a raptor is disturbed during nesting season it may exhibit aggressive defensive behaviors like vocalizing or dive-bombing. If you witness this behavior, retreat from your climb immediately and find a location on a different formation or a different part of the wall far enough away from the raptors that they are no longer noticeably agitated. If they remain agitated, then please leave the area immediately.
Raptor awareness is especially important during nesting season from mid-February to late May but needs to be considered through the end of August. Please report disturbed and/or nesting raptors to the Carson National Forest the appropriate district office (see below) and share relevant information here on MP. Human-raptor encounters can have negative impacts for the birds and climbers in the area. The Cason NF wants to maintain climbing access while protecting raptor reproduction and relies on climbers to recreate responsibly and share information in order to avoid the need for formal raptor closures.
Questa Ranger District
(575) 586-0520
Camino Real (Comales Canyon) Ranger District
(575) 587-2255
Tres Piedras Ranger District
(575) 758-8678
El Rito Ranger District
(575) 581-4554
Raptor awareness is especially important during nesting season from mid-February to late May but needs to be considered through the end of August. Please report disturbed and/or nesting raptors to the Carson National Forest the appropriate district office (see below) and share relevant information here on MP. Human-raptor encounters can have negative impacts for the birds and climbers in the area. The Cason NF wants to maintain climbing access while protecting raptor reproduction and relies on climbers to recreate responsibly and share information in order to avoid the need for formal raptor closures.
Questa Ranger District
(575) 586-0520
Camino Real (Comales Canyon) Ranger District
(575) 587-2255
Tres Piedras Ranger District
(575) 758-8678
El Rito Ranger District
(575) 581-4554
Description
Questa Dome proper is the centerpiece of multi-pitch climbing in the Taos area, with ~5 pitch routes on beautiful white granite. The climbs here range from 5.10-5.12, and have quality crack/slab climbing in the same style as parts of the S. Platte and the Organs. Questa Dome has a deserved reputation for runout & scary slabs, but it is so much more varied than just that! Most climbs follow cracks or seams for much of their length with slabs and thin-face sections linking these features. Most climbs in the center of the Dome tackle the intimidating roof that looms at the 350' level. And above the roof-- well you'll just have to find out what's up there! For years, Questa had a reputation for old scary bolts, but most have been replaced by now.
Season: May through October, typically. The cliff gets a lot of sun, and can be hot on summer days, or warm enough in spring or fall if it's not windy.
Descent: Top out the dome, scramble up the ridge a little ways, and walk-off to the east, down a faint trail and contour back to the base of the dome. If you have to bail from any of these, you'll need 2 ropes or will need to leave gear and build intermediate stations.
Guidebooks:
A guidebook or at least a topo is recommended. 'Taos Rock' and 'Rock Climbing: New Mexico' are both excellent guides to the area, and both include the best climbs. 'Taos Rock' includes 2 or 3 more routes that aren't in RC:NM. There are some lines/variations that are not in any guidebook.
Season: May through October, typically. The cliff gets a lot of sun, and can be hot on summer days, or warm enough in spring or fall if it's not windy.
Descent: Top out the dome, scramble up the ridge a little ways, and walk-off to the east, down a faint trail and contour back to the base of the dome. If you have to bail from any of these, you'll need 2 ropes or will need to leave gear and build intermediate stations.
Guidebooks:
A guidebook or at least a topo is recommended. 'Taos Rock' and 'Rock Climbing: New Mexico' are both excellent guides to the area, and both include the best climbs. 'Taos Rock' includes 2 or 3 more routes that aren't in RC:NM. There are some lines/variations that are not in any guidebook.
Getting There
From Taos: Take NM 522 north past the village of Questa. 6 miles past Questa take a right at a sign to El Rito. Go just under a mile to where the road turns (at a house) to dirt. Veer right and then climb up the steep road for just under a mile farther. High clearance is needed to drive the last 0.5 mile (or park and walk this). At the T-junction, go right, and continue for 0.2 miles to a small parking area and trailhead on the left.
The trailhead is an ok place to camp.
Approach:
The trail climbs through the pine forest and soon meets a beautiful creek. As the trail gets steeper, the dome is obvious on the left. Stay on the trail until about level with the base, then traverse left to the base of the rock. This will take 45 minutes or so.
The trailhead is an ok place to camp.
Approach:
The trail climbs through the pine forest and soon meets a beautiful creek. As the trail gets steeper, the dome is obvious on the left. Stay on the trail until about level with the base, then traverse left to the base of the rock. This will take 45 minutes or so.
Classic Climbing Routes at Questa Dome
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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