[Hide Comment] Anyone got any more beta on routes here? Visited this place during a family vacation a while back and was stuck by the multiple splitters and lack of informaiton. Feb 25, 2011

[Hide Comment] Still no beta huh? Anyone want to go exploring? I'm game! Apr 11, 2011

[Hide Comment] I know some stuff.

Email me @ buildingeye@gmail.com Apr 11, 2011

[Hide Comment] I am a local and have seen many great looking routes in the area that are unpublished. One would hope the creators would feel obliged to post. Otherwise, "someone" will post them and give credit to somebody named "unknown". Shame, many of the lines are really good! Back in the day, I understood keeping secrets. There were only a few of us and to make noise about an area created a crowd of we few. Today with the legions of climbers, more areas seem to disperse us thus creating a better situation for all. Nov 9, 2014

[Hide Comment] Here's some info from their webpage:
"The majority of areas suitable for climbing and canyoneering in the Monument are located within Wilderness Study Areas. Since wilderness preservation is part of BLM’s multiple-use mandate, WSAs are managed so as to not impair the suitability of such areas for preservation as wilderness. Non-impairment means that activities within WSAs must be both temporary and create no new surface disturbance. Bolts and other fixed anchors do not meet these criteria. Therefore they are not allowed in WSAs.

According to BLM Manual 6330 – Management of BLM Wilderness Study Areas, “Rock climbing and caving are allowed as long as these activities meet the non-impairment criteria. The placement of permanent fixed anchors (e.g., bolts) or artificial holds is not allowed unless it meets one of the exceptions to the non-impairment standard, e.g. for emergencies, such as search and rescue operations. Any impacts from emergency actions must be restored to a substantially unnoticeable condition following the emergency situation. Generally, fixed anchors placed prior to FLPMA (Federal Land Policy Management Act, 1976) will not be removed unless their presence creates—directly or indirectly—impacts that exceed the non-impairment standard.”

Long Canyon seems to be in two study areas. Steep Creek and North Escalante Canyons.



Nov 10, 2014

[Hide Comment] Link to the relevant page of the BLM website quoted by Darren above:

blm.gov/ut/st/en/fo/grand_s…

Now I look at this, it appears they have an ambitious WSA designation plan, covering large swaths of the monument. If so, this sucks in view of the restrictive climbing policy; there's areas that appear to fall into their WSA zoning that are utterly trashed by cows, tumbleweed hell. Maybe I'm reading the map wrong, the legend is unhelpful. I'm assuming that paler areas are supposed to be WSA? But the legend does not specify.

blm.gov/style/medialib/blm/…

Previously I was relying on their generic map here for guidance and it only shows the Vermilion Cliffs area as WSA, and everywhere else wide open, contradicting the maps linked above.

blm.gov/ut/st/en/fo/grand_s… Aug 2, 2016

[Hide Comment] Regarding the rules against bolting and permanent anchors in the area, has anyone considered using a retrievable cam anchor? Canyoneers with a climbing background have been exploring this option since there is more of a leave no trace ethic around canyoneering in the area (ghosting). Definitely experimental and more info on it here canyoncollective.com/thread…. There are other options for retrievable anchors depending on what you have to work with and the possibility of climbing to the top and walking off as well depending. If only someone could come up with a mechanical device that could be placed into a crack of any size and retrieved after rappeling down. Nov 20, 2016

[Hide Comment] kmanz - intriguing idea. I have used retrievable anchors in canyoneering. I think it is worth considering.

I was thinking of reaching out to Access Fund to get some ideas on how to move development forward in the area. The Bears Ears Monument could provide a new precedent. Feb 1, 2017

[Hide Comment] I see new bolted rappel stations atop different cracks every few years, so someone is ignoring the regulations. There is a section in the middle of Long Canyon that is excluded from the WSA. Technically you could place "permanent" anchors within that. Of course there's only a single law enforcement officer to patrol that vast area of the monument. Makes me wonder how the anti-climbing contingent even noticed the climbs in nearby Silver Falls to complain about them. 12 hours ago