PRINT: Rock Climbing in M) Fantasy Area, The New River Gorge Region

M) Fantasy Area

W Virginia > New River Gorge… > New River Gorge… > Endless Wall

Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.

Description

Endless Wall can get pretty hot, but this is one of the cooler areas, especially in the summer. Great 11+-12- sport lines, and the best 5.8 splitter at the NRG!

Getting There

Walk maybe 10 minutes upstream from the Honeymooner's Ladders, or find the obvious Fantasy Rappel (70m required).

Routes from Left to Right

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 1 ● Mowed Out Mama Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 5 ● Virgin Thing Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 42 ● The Stick Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 63 ● Blackhappy Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 238 ● Black and Tan Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R 1 ● Fenti Face Trad, TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 298 ● Aesthetica Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 31 ● Erotica Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 76 ● Doce Doe Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 2 ● Unknown Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 21 ● Fantasy Face Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 330 ● Fantasy Trad 2 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 9 ● Mr. Fantasy Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 4 ● The Orgasmatron Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 24 ● Riddle Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 1 ● May the 4th Be With You Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 14 ● Two-Step Arete Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 1 ● Jet Cap Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 3 ● The Tide Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 2 ● Rebel Spade Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 16 ● New Fangled Dangle Trad
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 1 ● Sparks Sport

● Mowed Out Mama

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad

● Virgin Thing

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport

● The Stick

5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport

● Blackhappy

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport

● Black and Tan

238

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad

● Fenti Face

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad, TR

● Aesthetica

298

5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport

● Erotica

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport

● Doce Doe

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad

● Unknown

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad

● Fantasy Face

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport

● Fantasy

330

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches

● Mr. Fantasy

5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport

● The Orgasmatron

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad

● Riddle

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport

● May the 4th Be With You

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad

● Two-Step Arete

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad

● Jet Cap

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport

● The Tide

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad

● Rebel Spade

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport

● New Fangled Dangle

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad

● Sparks

5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

a 60m will just touch the ground with stretch - knot the ends

This is the spot for rappelling in. It's actually super chill and safe.

Rapping into Fantasy Area