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Petrifying Wall Rock Climbing
Routes in Petrifying Wall
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A Cougar One Bite Brownie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Air B.C. Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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An Audience with the Emperor T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Animal S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Beers Are Not Enough T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Black Water S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Burning Down the Couch S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Canadian Style, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Chocolate Kisses S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Crosstrainer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Dead on Arrival T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Elastic Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Even Steven T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fall Guys S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Flight of the Challenger T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Flingus Cling, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Food Frenzy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Force Ten S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Ghost, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Heavy Petting Action S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Higher Type of Hate T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Instinct S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Lost Art of Keeping A Secret, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lost Highway S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Mata Hari S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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No Name Road S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pleasant Pheasant S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Plumbline S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Project Grizzly T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Rocket S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Run to Cover (Part 1) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Second Nature S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Swamp Thing S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Underwire S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Youth Gone Wild S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Elevation: | 522 ft | 159 m |
| GPS: |
49.6437, -123.2121 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 68,389 total · 320/month | |
| Shared By: | Peter Spindloe on Apr 21, 2007 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
The Petrifying Wall feels unique in Squamish. It's a long crag of rope-stretching, dead vertical climbs on super compact fine textured granite. The climbs are mostly sport, but a few of Squamish's best trad lines are here. The sheer number of high quality hard sport climbs on this one crag is impressive: at least 6 at 5.13, 25 at 5.12, 21 at 5.11. Several newer 5.10s have been added to this cliff more recently to warm up on. The climbing style here - technical climbing on small edges with long reaches.
The easiest climbs at Pet Wall are Heavy Petting Action and Cougar One Bite Brownie, both 10a, at the far western end of the cliff. Among the most popular Pet Walls climbs is Pleasant Pheasant at 5.10d. Burning Down the Couch at 5.11d is considered one of the best. Flingus Cling gets high marks as an introductory 5.12b and Flight of the Challenger is a trad testpiece at 5.12c and you might well see people on it.
The easiest climbs at Pet Wall are Heavy Petting Action and Cougar One Bite Brownie, both 10a, at the far western end of the cliff. Among the most popular Pet Walls climbs is Pleasant Pheasant at 5.10d. Burning Down the Couch at 5.11d is considered one of the best. Flingus Cling gets high marks as an introductory 5.12b and Flight of the Challenger is a trad testpiece at 5.12c and you might well see people on it.
Getting There
Walk along the trail around Browning Lake, past the picnic benches and past the trail leading up to Zoe. There's a fairly obvious trail that heads west to the south of Zoe, goes over a little rise and the curves south. You'll know when you've arrived. It's about 15 minutes from the parking lot.
Classic Climbing Routes at Petrifying Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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