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Elevation: 271 ft 83 m
GPS: 44.33958, -68.25807
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Ladd Raine on Apr 20, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall
Warning Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Here's the correct link to trail closures:

nps.gov/acad/learn/news/tra…

(You may have to COPY (CTRL C) and PASTE (CTRL V) into your browser )

Acadia National Park is visited by more than 2 million tourists every year. However this location is not visited for its rock (such as Yosemite), but for its reputation as the first place the sun touches in the USA (Cadillac Mtn.), and for its beautiful ocean views, as well as for ocean kayaking.

There are many areas in Acadia that make the long drive to get there more than worth it. Try to limit yourself to coming in the warm season (May-late September). Climbing by the ocean when it is cold out is a unpleasant experience.

NPS Site

Attention: There is a new guidebook for this area!
With route descriptions for nearly 300 climbs, this guidebook covers all of the classic Acadia climbing areas, plus many of the islandÂ’s more obscure haunts. Detailed information will keep you climbing; beautiful photographs will keep you inspired. 124 pages; full color.
Also available is a digital version of the guide through the guidebook app company, rakkup.

http://www.rakkup.com/guidebooks/acadia-rock-climbing/

Check out the site to purchase the new guidebook: rockclimbsofacadia.com/



ACADIA GUIDING SERVICES:

  • Atlantic Climbing SchoolWith an office right in Bar Harbor these guys primarily serve Acadia and Camden, though they will guide any location in New England and also offer guiding internationally. Locally owned, these guys put out the last couple guidebooks for Acadia.
  • Acadia Mountain Guides - Also based in Bar Harbor along with a location in Orono Maine, this school focuses primarily on Acadia but also guides throughout New England, along with occasionally offering AMGA classes. Owned by John Tierney, who wrote the original Clifton Guidebook.
  • Equinox Guiding Service 

Getting There Suggest change

Take I-95 in Maine, continue up to Bangor. From Bangor, Maine, take Rt. 1A to Ellsworth and then Rt. 3 to Mount Desert Island. Once on the island, head towards Town Hill on Rt. 198. Continue on Rt. 198 until you reach a junction with Rt. 233, at which youÂ’ll need to take a left. From Rt. 233 take a left to enter Acadia National Park.

Bolting

Suggest change
Acadia NP has a Climbing Advisor Group and procedures for how to handle bolting/rebolting. Details can be found here: nps.gov/acad/planyourvisit/…. . Let's follow the rules so climbers continue to have a good relationship with the park.

400 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: -Acadia National Park Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at -Acadia National Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V3+ 6A+
 37
Purity
Boulder
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 312
Story of O
Trad 3 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 321
Old Town
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 139
Bartleby -(Central Slab)
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 69
Morning Glory
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 95
Return to Forever - (mid-cliff…
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 73
Birch Ade - (mid-cliff START)
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 77
Green Mt. Breakdown
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 88
Chitlin's Corner
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 116
Guillotine
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 84
Emigrant Crack - (mid-cliff START)
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 36
Fear of Flying
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 215
A Dare by the Sea
Trad, TR
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
 41
Head Arete
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 149
Connecticut Cracks
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Purity -MDI Bouldering > Beech Cliff Bouldering
 37
V3+ 6A+ Boulder
Story of O Precipice aka The S Wall
 312
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Old Town Precipice aka The S Wall
 321
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Bartleby -(Central Slab) Precipice aka The S Wall
 139
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Morning Glory Great Head > Morning Glory Alcove
 69
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Return to Forever - (mid-c… Precipice aka The S Wall
 95
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Birch Ade - (mid-cliff ST… Precipice aka The S Wall
 73
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Green Mt. Breakdown Precipice aka The S Wall
 77
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Chitlin's Corner Precipice aka The S Wall
 88
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Guillotine Otter Cliffs
 116
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Emigrant Crack - (mid-clif… Precipice aka The S Wall
 84
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Fear of Flying Precipice aka The S Wall
 36
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
A Dare by the Sea Otter Cliffs
 215
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad, TR
Head Arete Great Head > Left Wall
 41
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 Trad
Connecticut Cracks Precipice aka The S Wall
 149
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in -Acadia National Park »

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