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Elevation: 1,891 ft 576 m
GPS: 38.05508, -81.05767
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 689,456 total · 2,897/month
Shared By: Chris Whisenhunt on Apr 10, 2007
Admins: Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson
Warning Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is the crown jewel of all the crags on the New River. With nearly 3 miles of unbroken cliff (and nearly six if you include greater Endless Wall from Ambassador to Keeney's Buttress), breathtaking views, and as much exposure as you can get on a single pitch off the ground, it's easy to spend several days in a row here, or a season, or a lifetime. There is everything from glorious 100 foot bolted moderates to classic gear lines to modern sport and trad testpieces requiring mutant strength.  Spring and Fall are the best seasons here, but it's possible to get great conditions at the Cirque in January, or Aesthetica area during August.  The only thing this place lacks is an abundance of easy bolted lines-- to get the most out of Endless, you'll want to be solid on 5.10 trad and 5.11+ sport.

Since the Endless Wall Trail has been voted #1 hiking trail in a U.S. national park, it's been getting a lot of traffic. With this traffic come more issues, especially with parking. If you park along the road and your tires are touching the asphalt then you will get towed! Get there early to get a spot in one of the lots, and carpool if possible.

Getting There Suggest change

Take second right after bridge (heading north). Park at Fern Point trail head (bottom of hill about 1 mi. from road) or up at the Nuttall parking at the top of the hill past the Fern parking.

If you park at the Fern Point trail head you will hike in through the hemlock forest and cross a bridge (cut off right from the trail just before this bridge to access lower sections of Fern Buttress), go up hill and then come to a sign for climber's access on your right. Take that trail on the right and go down the ladders. This is Fern Point. Head left instead of right, follow the trail and the scenic views to reach the Honeymooner's ladder.

From the Nuttall parking you will walk through the hemlock forest, cross the bridge, and then head up a hill. Eventually you will see a sign on the left side of the trail for climbing access. Take that trail and down the ladders to go to the Cirque.

Roughly equidistant between the Fern Point and Cirque ladders is another set-- Honeymooner's ladders. Going down this set of ladders puts you dead in the middle (and arguably the most quality section) of Endless Wall at Snake Buttress.

As you get more familiar with the approaches to Endless, you'll find that there are also a few convenient rappel stations that facilitate getting to a few areas a bit quicker. They are mentioned in more detail (with pictures) in the Williams guidebook, and are generally easy to find off of the approach trail.

303 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Endless Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 375
● Fantasy
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 224
● Fool Effect
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 262
● Black and Tan
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 385
● Strike A Scowl
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 175
● Remission
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 206
● Party in My Mind
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 123
● Mellifluus
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 565
● Legacy
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 321
● Discombobulated
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 89
● Leave it to Jesus
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 340
● Aesthetica
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 171
● Freaky Stylee
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 184
● Bullet the New Sky
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 138
● New World Order
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 77
● Jesus and Tequila
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Fantasy M) Fantasy Area
 375
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
● Fool Effect E) Kaymoor Slabs
 224
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Black and Tan M) Fantasy Area
 262
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
● Strike A Scowl G) Diamond Point
 385
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● Remission G) Diamond Point
 175
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Party in My Mind B) Party Buttress
 206
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Mellifluus A) Fern Point
 123
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
● Legacy J) Snake Buttress
 565
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Discombobulated J) Snake Buttress
 321
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Leave it to Jesus G) Diamond Point
 89
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
● Aesthetica M) Fantasy Area
 340
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● Freaky Stylee B) Party Buttress
 171
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Bullet the New Sky J) Snake Buttress
 184
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
● New World Order J) Snake Buttress
 138
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
● Jesus and Tequila I) Honeymooner's Area
 77
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Endless Wall »

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