Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 6,400 ft 1,951 m
GPS: 35.8178, -106.1873
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 63,121 total · 286/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Apr 4, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

Description Suggest change

East facing basalt crag known for its short, moderate sport routes. This is often the place local aspiring sport climbers cut their teeth. Winter climbing is great here with the dark, east facing aspect receiving plenty of sun.

Gallows is comprised of three areas: The Main Wall, The Pit and The Upper Tier with most of the routes located on the Main Wall.

The routes are packed tightly and it can get quite crowded but the social scene is often friendly and fun.

The crag was discovered by Carlo Torres, Jon Butler, Lucas Laeser, and Mike Lyons, among others, and remained almost totally undeveloped until very recently. Most first ascents were done solo.

A very nice online PDF guide by Guido Bender can be downloaded from the Los Alamos Mountaineers website.

2025 HARDWARE UPDATE:
Over 5 days in February and March 2025, a rebolting project of the Main Wall at Gallows Edge was completed. Here's a quick summary of the completed work: 34 protection bolts upgraded, 13 anchor bolts upgraded, 22 steel lowering carabiners added, chain/quicklinks upgraded (as needed) and 3 new protection bolts added. All holes were patched. The hardware was supported by the NM Mountain Club, American Safe Climbing Association and a private donation from two Santa Fe climbers. A sincere thank you to everyone who helped make this project happen! (Alex, Charli, Ben, Mark, Jeff, George, Heather, John, Mason, Jason, NMMC, ASCA). Please support rebolting projects by donating to the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org).

Getting There Suggest change

From NM4, turn south on Rover Blvd. Turn left on the first street on your left, Meadow Lane. Stay on Meadow Lane for 1.3 miles and park near 719 Meadow Lane. Please respect the homeowners and don't block mailboxes or driveways. A concrete public access trail heads east between 719 and 721 Meadow Lane. At the end of the concrete veer slightly left and continue straight towards the cliffs. Follow the good climber's trail down to the third shelf. This is Gallows Edge.

28 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Gallows Edge Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Gallows Edge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 80
Princess Buttercup
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 68
Pejos Route
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 74
R.O.U.S. (Rodents Of Unusual Size)
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 61
Planet of the Apes
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 79
The Fire Swamp
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 57
Westley
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 94
99 Red Balloons
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 72
Once Were Warriors
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 39
The Odor Takeda
Sport
Pit
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 40
As You Wish
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 22
The Thunderbird Crack
Trad
Pit
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 18
Dave And Crissa's Route
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 30
Fezzik (Andre the Giant)
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 31
Fay Drostenson
Sport
Pit
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 28
Gralisa Leen
Sport
Pit
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Princess Buttercup Main Wall
 80
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Pejos Route Main Wall
 68
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
R.O.U.S. (Rodents Of Unusua… Main Wall
 74
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Planet of the Apes Main Wall
 61
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Fire Swamp Main Wall
 79
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Westley Main Wall
 57
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
99 Red Balloons Main Wall
 94
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Once Were Warriors Main Wall
 72
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Odor Takeda Pit
 39
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
As You Wish Main Wall
 40
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
The Thunderbird Crack Pit
 22
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Dave And Crissa's Route Upper Tier
 18
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Fezzik (Andre the Giant) Main Wall
 30
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Fay Drostenson Pit
 31
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Gralisa Leen Pit
 28
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Gallows Edge »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

6,000 characters
loading