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Shortoff Mountain Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Shortoff Mountain

L › R R › L A › Z

	Shortoff Spire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Desp-arete S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	False Paradise T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Last Straw, The T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Paradise Alley T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Paradise Lost T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Paradise City T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Supercrack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Stopperhead Arete T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Made in the shade T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Between The Lines T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13
	Lost and Found T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Finders Keepers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Raven 13 T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Sword of the Lord T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	White Russians Gone Bananas T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	White Corner T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Early Times T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Toxic Shock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Dopey Duck T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Dizzy Gillespie T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	King of Tulips, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Hurricane Escape Hatch T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
	Ralph’s Solo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Gully Rappel T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Face n Flake T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Short Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Short Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Energizer T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Pickett's Charge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Turn and Burn T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
	Serentripitous T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Tilted Arms T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Pinball Wizard T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Full Tilt Boogie T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Built to Tilt T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Appalachain Runt T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Appalachain Chuffer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Dancing Outlaw, The T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Julia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Little Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Ron Dawson Memorial Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Maginot Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Maginot Roof T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Blade Runner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Help Mr. Wizard T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Big Arete, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Humdinger T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Straight and Narrow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Straight Gas Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Construction Job T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Golden Rule T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	C. O. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Understated Tailoring T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Just Another Pretty Face T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Bonsai T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Warp Factor T T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Enterprise, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Twist of fate T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Sleight of Hand T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Fly By T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Change Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Saddle Up T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Comfortably Numb T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Learning to fly T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	For The Birds T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Trick Or Treat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

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Elevation:	2,759 ft	841 m
GPS:	35.83139, -81.90257 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Joe Forrester on Apr 2, 2007 · Updates
Admins:	Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th) Details

fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…

Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.

Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.

NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.

Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.

Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags Details

The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!

carolinaclimbers.org/conten…

Access Issue: Shortoff Mountain South - Falcon Closure Lifted for 2021 Details

Description

Shortoff Mountain is a beautiful adventure climbing locale at the southern end of the Linville Gorge in NC. The southwest exposures are perfect on autumn and spring days when you can look across the gorge and see the reds and yellows or greens and whites. There are rarely other climbers there, the most crowded weekend I have seen is two other parties. The climbing as far as I know all requires an ability to place gear and build your own anchors. If you just clip bolts, you might want to freshen up on your gear skills first. The rock is characterized by crack systems interspersed with wild horizontals. On many routes, a huge horizontal jug is just far enough out of reach to make it exciting. The rock is clean in most places, but there is a fair bit of lichen on the rarely climbed routes, giving the climbs an increased sense of adventure.

Shortoff North/Shortoff South

The approach gully is the main landmark for locating routes at Shortoff. For convenience, route descriptions in this section will include the designation Shortoff North for lines north of the approach gully, and Shortoff South for climbs to the south of the gully.

Getting There

Take exit 90 (Nebo/Lake James) to the north. You'll be on Harmony Grove Road. You have two options, left or right. If you go left, take a right when you hit NC 126, if you go right take a left. Either way, get to NC 126 and follow it North. You'll pass through some farmland and golf course as you pass around Lake James. After you cross a small one lane bridge a ways down the road (10 miles) start looking for Wolf Pit Road (it is dirt). Follow this road up until it dead ends. There is camping at the end of the road. However, you have to pass through private property in your car so respect that. Keep the music down and don't camp on someone's property.Approach by taking the logging road at the north end of the turn around. Take a right about 1/4 mile in heading uphill. At one point you'll join the Mountain to Sea trail. You'll eventually reach the canyon rim and then a spring. This is the approach gully. If you have climbed in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, your option will seem fairly obvious. Drop down the gully and be ready to climb out. Oh, the water should be OK coming from the tap.

Shortoff has become very popular with hikers. As a result, parking at Wolf Pit fills up quickly, especially on nice weekends. Plan accordingly.

67 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Shortoff Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 147 ● Little Corner Trad 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 247 ● Maginot Line Trad 4 pitches
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c 34 ● False Paradise Trad 4 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 102 ● Paradise Alley Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 89 ● Construction Job Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 224 ● Dopey Duck Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 126 ● Straight and Narrow Trad 3 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b 94 ● Built to Tilt Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 49 ● Julia Trad 3 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 13 ● Humdinger Trad 2 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 8 ● Stopperhead Arete Trad 3 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 16 ● Golden Rule Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 12 ● The Big Arete Trad 3 pitches
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a 7 ● Full Tilt Boogie Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 28 ● Supercrack Trad 3 pitches