Grand Ledge (aka Oak Park) Climbing

Sunny sandstone top roping and bouldering crag in the lower peninsula of Michigan right on the Grand River. The cliff is 40 feet tall and offers very bouldery, challenging climbs and problems.The cliff faces south and receives sun most of the day with the majority of wind blocked as well.  While the rock quality is pretty good on established classics, other areas can be quite chossy, so be careful.

When the weather is nice, evenings and weekends will be busy, and many ropes will be hung.  Typically, ropes and areas are shared spaces, but it is still essential to check the anchor build up top before climbing.  This is a great way to start climbing at the park, joining several locals who have many routes already set and can point a new climber in the right direction.  There is no guiding within the park, but all the skills required are fairly basic and can be learned quickly with some application and someone that knows what they are doing.  

Mountain Project has divided Oak Park into Bouldering and Top Roping sections for ease of use.  Within these style specific styles, you can find much more information including top rope hangs, projects, smaller area guides in the menu lower on the page and it is still being added to.  The intended goal of this site is to document as much history as possible and give the user the best guide possible to climb at Oak Park.  Suggestions are always welcome.

Typically, top ropes are anchored around one of the large trees at the cliff side.  Webbing should always go to the base of the tree minimizing harm to the tree and creating a safer anchor for climbing.  Carabiners should be hung over the lip and somewhere they are dangling to avoid rope drag on the rock.  Lastly, carpeting or some material should be under the webbing on the edge of cliff to prevent damage from potential movement of the webbing used to build the anchors.  Redundant system throughout the anchor and opposing and locking biners for the rope to go through are standard within Oak Park.

Unique Rules to Grand Ledge:

(1) No lead climbing.

(2) Guiding at Oak Park is done by permit only through the City of Grand Ledge.

(3) Must place carpet below your anchors to protect cliff from erosion. You will see how soft the rock is and all the marking from webbing and rope.

(4) No Rappelling.

(5) No alcohol. 

(6) No top roping over the Ballerina Bulge or west of the signs near the overlook.

Classic climbs/problems include:

Chips: 5.7

Black Buttress: 5.9

Doug's Roof: 5.10

Rocket Man: 5:10

V3 Despondency

V5 Ballerina

V7 Enigma