The Precipice aka The South Wall Rock Climbing
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Elevation: | 382 ft | 116 m |
GPS: |
44.34691, -68.19013 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 225,263 total · 1,018/month | |
Shared By: | Brett Butera on Mar 10, 2007 · Updates | |
Admins: | Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall, Chris Duca |
For details visit:
nps.gov/acad/planyourvisit/…
nps.gov/acad/planyourvisit/…
Description
The Precipice aka South Wall is located in Acadia National Park on the east side of Mount Desert Island in Maine. The glaciated pink granite is high-quality, solid rock for climbing and provides some excellent dihedrals, such as the classic climbs Old Town (5.7) and Return to Forever (5.9). Other not-to-miss climbs include: The Story of O (5.6), Green Mountain Breakdown (5.9+), and Chitlins Corner (5.10a). From the top of the climbs, one has a spectacular view of the Atlantic Ocean. A guidebook is available for the island, Rock Climbs of Acadia by Grant Simmons and is available at Alpenglow Adventure Sports on Main Street in Bar Harbor. The crag is over two hundred feet tall at its highest point, resulting in 2-3 pitch climbs. The climbs are traditional and require a standard rack of mixed stoppers and mostly small-to-medium size cams. Fixed rappels are located at the top of many climbs. A 60-meter rope is best, although many of the single pitch climbs can be done with a 50-meter rope. Peregrine closures only affect a few routes right of Wafer Step which are generally not done anyway. Current closures and conditions on the NPS site: http://www.nps.gov/acad/planyourvisit/trailclosures.htm
Getting There
Directions to the Precipice: From Bangor, Maine, take Rt. 1A to Ellsworth and then Rt. 3 to Mount Desert Island. Once on the island, head towards Town Hill on Rt. 198. Continue on Rt. 198 until you reach a junction with Rt. 233, at which youll need to take a left. From Rt. 233 take a left to enter Acadia National Park. Take the park loop road past the Precipice Trailhead parking. The trailhead to the crag is approximately 100 meters past the trailhead parking. You can park on the right side of the two-lane one-way road. Youll know you are on the right approach trail when you see the climber sign-in box. Continue on the trail until you reach a small cliff, where you need to head left across the talus field to the base of the crag.
Parking is extremely limited here, especially in summer. Consider parking outside the park and biking or taking the shuttle.
Parking is extremely limited here, especially in summer. Consider parking outside the park and biking or taking the shuttle.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Precipice aka The South Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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