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Eldorado Peak Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Eldorado Peak

Dorado Needle 4

Early Morning Spire 0

El Dorado Boulders 1

Main Peak 9

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Elevation:	8,860 ft	2,701 m
GPS:	48.53755, -121.13436 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	63,862 total · 288/month
Shared By:	Danny Darby on Feb 25, 2007 · Updates
Admins:	Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Eldorado Peak is an awe aspiring alpine area deep in the North Cascades. The Cascade Pass area can be very crowded on the weekends but is secluded on the weekdays. The summit of Eldorado Peak is guarded by a long and strenuous approach. All though it can be accomplished as a one day push by strong parties it is probably best done as a 2-3 day climb. Routes can be from a easy walk up with an amazing knife edge traverse to WI 3 climbing.

Getting There

The approach is long and strenuous. Walk west on the Cascade River Road for about 100 feet and find the log to cross the river. Once you have crossed the river you follow the trail for about 1840 vertical through the forest. You'll eventually reach a large boulder field. Scramble through though boulders following [typo - carins] cairns and occasionally a trail on the right side of the boulders. Boulder hop for about 1000 vertical. After the boulders you'll reach the beautiful meadows where you'll hike to the ridge that overlooks the Roush Creek Basin and Eldorado Glacier. Locate the trail the down climbs 3rd class terrain down to the moraine. Follow the moraine to the glacier and then hike the glacier to a great high camp at about 7600 feet.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Eldorado Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

Easy Snow 142 ● East Ridge Snow, Alpine Main Peak
AI2 Steep Snow 10 ● Northwest Ice Couloir Ice, Snow, Alpine Main Peak
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Easy Snow 7 ● Austera Peak Trad, Snow, Alpine Main Peak
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Easy Snow 9 ● Klawatti Peak SW Buttress Trad, Snow, Alpine 3 pitches Main Peak
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Mod. Snow 32 ● Northwest Ridge Trad, Snow, Alpine 3 pitches Dorado Needle
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 10 ● East Ridge Trad, Alpine Dorado Needle
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Steep Snow 7 ● North Ridge Trad, Snow, Alpine Main Peak
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Easy Snow 15 ● Southwest Buttress Trad, Snow, Alpine 9 pitches Dorado Needle
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Mod. Snow 8 ● West Arete Trad, Snow, Alpine 10 pitches Main Peak