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Lost Pencil

California > Joshua Tree NP > Queen Valley Area > Geology Tour Rd > Jerry's Quarry & Lost…
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

This is the unmistakable, balanced pillar seen to the west at about 3.5 miles down the Geology Tour Road.
The classic "Indian Giver" is on the west side.

Getting There

Park at Pullout #5 and walk west. the approach will become obvious.

Routes from Left to Right

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 5
● Number Two (aka the Weasel Boys…
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R
 3
● [Redacted]
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 2
● Coming Up
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
● Jailbird
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 2
● New Shoes For Sunny
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
● Sexy Bolt
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Number Two (aka the Weasel…
 5
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
● [Redacted]
 3
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R Trad
● Coming Up
 2
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
● Jailbird
 3
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
● New Shoes For Sunny
 2
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● Sexy Bolt
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Lost Pencil. <br> Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] Lost Pencil. Photo by Blitzo.
Lost Pencil from the south.<br> Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] Lost Pencil from the south. Photo by Blitzo.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Alois Smrz
Idyllwild, CA
[Hide Comment] When we climbed the Lost Pencil in 1987, there were three routes on it. Only one free, The Indian Giver. The other two routes were A1 bolt ladders. The one on NW side was already partially chopped. The one on SE side had 18 bolts with hangers removed. We used small wired stoppers over the hangers, to aid up this. Jun 5, 2024