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Peterskill

New York > Gunks

Description

A "miniature Gunks", Peterskill has the same type of rock (quartzite conglomerate), the same type of routes (filled with roofs and horizontal cracks), and uses similar gear--but is only one pitch high. It's the perfect place to get used to leading/seconding, TRing, and learning to build gear anchors. Bouldering at Peterskill is also popular. There is an access trail that runs along the entire top of the cliff with several places to descend to a similar access trail that runs along the bottom of the cliff; getting up top to set up a TR anchor is extremely easy.

Peterskill is home to the globally-rare Ridgeline Dwarf Pitch Pine - in fact, it's one of the largest stands of Pitch Pines in the United States; consequently, Minnewaska State Park has declared the Pitch Pines as protected.

If you don't know what a Pitch Pine looks like, then don't use ANY coniferous (pine) trees, just to be safe. Any tree used in an anchor should be padded in some way to protect against rope damage. Failure to comply with these rules can and will result in the closing of Peterskill to climbing.

According to Jorge Gomes, Assistant Park Manager at Minnewaska State Park (MSPP): MSPP does not require padding around trees, but they would however appreciate the use of it if possible. Using unpadded trees and pitch pines is allowed, but MSPP requests you use them in ways that does not cause the tree any damage. The use of static rope, slings, webbing, and cordellettes around trees is acceptable as long as they don't move around to cut/burn into the tree. Unacceptable: pulling your rope from rappelling directly off a tree (meaning no anchor between the tree and your rope), or using girth hitches (constricting around the trunk possibly breaking off bark).
  

Some of the routes at Peterskill have bolt anchors (Anna's Route, Jumbled Arete, Bunk Arete/Night Owl, Slumber Party/Sleepwalking, Reach Around/Crack-a-lack, Captain's Log/Kling-On/Hanky/TP, The Scrotum Pole, Floops/Oops, The Yellow Wallpaper, Psycho Crack Left/Psycho Crack Right, Chalkboard wall, Skink, Fickle Fingers, Golden Dreams). Other than these, you'll have to build gear anchors. The anchor bolts exist due to the efforts of some of the guide services; they're the ONLY ones allowed to put in anchor bolts. Please do not add any without proper authorization.

The nicest thing about Peterskill--aside from the Gunks-quality rock and ease of access--is the fact that Minnewaska Preserve limits the number of climbers allow on-site per day. This tends to prevent the crowds you'll see at the Gunks. But get there early, or risk being turned away.

Please note that climbing is not permitted at Peterskill during the winter. You can check the status on their website.

An updated map is here

Entry Fees - Unfortunately, your Mohonk Preserve season pass will not work at Peterskill, and your Peterskill season pass won't work at the Trapps - the areas are under different management. For 2013, Peterskill pricing is:

$10 per climber / boulderer per day

100 climbers and 30 boulderers allowed in the climbing area at one time

Season pass: $90 per person

The park opens at 9am.

When you leave for the day - especially if you leave early - check out at the booth. This will 1) help the management keep track of who might still be out on the rock if someone goes missing, and 2) allow another climber in, if the max for the day has already been reached. For each climber that leaves, they'll allow another in.

Guidebook: In 2015, Mike Rawdon and Marty Molitoris published a new guidebook: A Rock Climber's Guide to the Peter's Kill Climbing Area - find it at Rock & Snow, at The Inner Wall, at the Peterskill center, or on on Ebay. The mobile version is available from the GunksApp folks.

Getting There

Peterskill is located approximately 1.4 miles past the West Trapps Parking Area for the Gunks; continue along 44/55 past the Trapps lot, and you'll see the Minnewaska State Park - Peterskill Climbing Area sign on your right. From the parking lot to the cliffs is no more than a few minutes walk; even at the furthest climbing wall, you're not more than 10 minutes from the parking lot.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Topo of the Lower Peter's Kill cliffs. The one from the guidebook has some misleading/inaccurate information. PM me if you have any suggestions for improvement for this one.
[Hide Photo] Topo of the Lower Peter's Kill cliffs. The one from the guidebook has some misleading/inaccurate information. PM me if you have any suggestions for improvement for this one.
Peterskill Fall 2016
[Hide Photo] Peterskill Fall 2016
Peterskill in the Fall 2016
[Hide Photo] Peterskill in the Fall 2016
Topo of the Lower Peter's Kill cliffs. The one from the guidebook has some misleading/inaccurate information. PM me if you have any suggestions for improvement for this one.
[Hide Photo] Topo of the Lower Peter's Kill cliffs. The one from the guidebook has some misleading/inaccurate information. PM me if you have any suggestions for improvement for this one.
Saw this toprope setup at Peterskill a few weeks ago. Single girth hitched sling around an endangered pine tree, redirected(?) around a tiny branch, running over sharp rock, to a single biner for top roping. The leader missed every single point of a SERENE anchor. People die this way, and have died in similar set ups at the Gunks in recent years...
[Hide Photo] Saw this toprope setup at Peterskill a few weeks ago. Single girth hitched sling around an endangered pine tree, redirected(?) around a tiny branch, running over sharp rock, to a single biner for t…
Looking at rap station above Psycho Crack.
[Hide Photo] Looking at rap station above Psycho Crack.
Mountain Laurel in bloom at the base of the Clamshell Wall. July 2016
[Hide Photo] Mountain Laurel in bloom at the base of the Clamshell Wall. July 2016
Nearby Awosting (no longer permitted)
[Hide Photo] Nearby Awosting (no longer permitted)
Beautiful late fall day at Peterskill.
[Hide Photo] Beautiful late fall day at Peterskill.
Array of colors in the Fall at Peterskill.
[Hide Photo] Array of colors in the Fall at Peterskill.
Late Fall in Peterskill. 11/10/2019
[Hide Photo] Late Fall in Peterskill. 11/10/2019
Map of the area with major walls. From the guidebook, which you should buy because it's really helpful.
[Hide Photo] Map of the area with major walls. From the guidebook, which you should buy because it's really helpful.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Peterskill is really a great place for beginners.

It can be a great place for learning to lead... but beware! I've had a few ropes come whizzing past while on lead, one in a rope bag almost took me out. Most people are there to toprope, and if they don't see an anchor at the top, they don't expect anyone to be leading from below.

So take care leading at PK.

Other info:
PK has bathrooms, with running water, so it can be more kid/beginner friendly.

The parking lot closes at dusk. Once they close the gate, you won't be able to get your car out of the lot. Aug 31, 2009
Pat Langendorfer
Muncie, IN
[Hide Comment] I was up there in September 2010, and didn't see any snakes, BUT it isn't just the copperheads you need to look out for. There are definitely rattlesnakes too. thankfully most of the nesting areas have been marked off by park staff, but beware when plugging gear for top anchors around the Khadejha Area. Don't end up in the hospital! Mar 19, 2011
Tommy Ormond
Eldorado Springs, CO
[Hide Comment] Why are so many comments about copperheads at Peterskill here on Mountain Project?

I lived on Trapps road and at Split Rock for a few years, worked as a Preserve Ranger and a Minnewaska State Park Ranger, spend years of my life at the Peterskill doing everything from climbing to dirtbiking out there. There are plenty of snakes, copperheads and rattlers all over. My friends dog got into a copperhead once, it was bad. Beware all over the Gunks for those little dudes. Jul 18, 2012
Tommy Ormond
Eldorado Springs, CO
[Hide Comment]
Gunks rattler
Jul 23, 2012
Michael Spiesbach
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] So I know I've seen a photo of a big wide crack in peterskill but I can't remember where.. it's covered in lichen on both sides but the crack looks clean.. anyone know what I'm talking about? Apr 6, 2016
[Hide Comment] Crak - you thinking of Bro Crack?

mountainproject.com/v/bro-c… Apr 27, 2016
[Hide Comment] The first guidebook to Peterskill, which I assume remains influential, may have wildly over-rated a number of climbs at the lower grades. At least relative to Trapps ratings. Dec 8, 2017
[Hide Comment] > "The first guidebook to Peterskill, which I assume remains influential, may have wildly over-rated a number of climbs at the lower grades. At least relative to Trapps ratings. "

Well, there's been a lot of climbing out there since that first guidebook came out. (yikes, 21 years ago. Where'd the time go?) I'd appreciate your thoughts on the ratings (and photos for that matter) in the just-revised GunksApp guide to PK. A few ratings did go down, but I can think of at least one route that got a bump up. Jun 11, 2021
Dustin Cheney
Syracuse
[Hide Comment] To any newcomers to Peterskill, the distinctions between the different areas are a little silly. For example, Psycho Wall, Cuckoo's Nest, are two walls in the same corner, and the oops wall is just around to the left maybe 50 feet. It can make it hard to find routes with MP, since the splits make it seem like the area should end. Just like the Trapps, the routes are all very close together in popular areas. Dec 10, 2024