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Old Rag

Virginia > Shenandoah & NW… > Shenandoah NP

Description

Old Rag is the traditional climbing crown of Virginia. For those willing to brave the somewhat lengthy approach with a full rack and rope, gorgeous single pitch, Joshua Tree-esque granite awaits you. Classic splitters, corners and faces on very old and bomber rock define this area. There are a few routes that go for two pitches, but not many. The same can be said for bolted routes- they are sparse and most require the augmentation of traditional gear.

Comprehensive Guidebook: stores.sharpendbooks.com/ol…

The climbing at Old Rag offers plenty of opportunity for adventure. Choose wisely, because an injury here requiring a rescue is quite an involved and arduous procedure. Be cautious.

There is a great resource for more informationHERE.

Good non-climbing info at: hikingupward.com/SNP/OldRag/

Getting There

Directions from Google Maps;daddr=38.57036+-78.28705&submit2.x=47&submit2.y=7

From Washington DC metro area, outer loop of beltway:

Take exit 49 to merge onto I-66 W toward Front Royal/Manassas 21.7 mi.

Take exit 43A to merge onto Lee Hwy/US29 S toward Gainesville/Warrenton 11.5 mi

Take the US29 Bus/US211 W exit toward Luray/Warrenton/US-15 Bus0.2 mi

Merge E Lee Hwy/US-211 W/US-29-BR S Continue on US-211 W/US-29-BR S 1.8 mi

Turn right at Frost Ave/US-211. Continue to follow US-211 27.0 mi

Turn left at Berryville Pike/US-522 0.1 mi

Turn left at Main St/US-522. Continue to follow US-522 0.7 mi

Turn right at Fort Valley Rd/VA-231 7.3 mi

Turn right at Sharp Rock Rd 1.2 mi

Turn right at Nethers Rd 2.2 mi

Large Parking lot will be on left. There are also ~10 parking spots at the trailhead.

Parking fees may be required unless you have an annual SNP $20? or NPS/America-the-Beautiful $80 pass.


NOTE: AS OF MARCH 2022 YOU MUST RESERVE AN OLD RAG DAY USE TICKET TO BE ANYWHERE ON THE MOUNTAIN. 

https://www.recreation.gov/ticket/facility/10088450

PLEASE TAKE THE TIME TO LET THE PARK SERVICE KNOW HOW YOU FEEL ABOUT THIS NEW POLICY.

***THIS PARKING ABOVE IS THE HIKER PARKING. IT ADDS ALMOST AN EXTRA MILE AND A FEW HUNDRED EXTRA FEET OF ELEVATION AND EXTRA 4TH CLASS SCRAMBLING TO YOUR APPROACH- BUT IT IS FUN! IF YOU WANT THE CLIMBER'S APPROACH, SEE BELOW.***

Take route 231 (whether coming from North or South) to route 670 (Old BlueRidge Turnpike). Follow this to the small, one intersection town of Syria, VA. From here, follow Weakley Hollow Road all the way to Berry Hollow Rd (it actually turns into Berry Hollow Road at some point) until you reach the Berry Hollow Parking lot. You'll have a small river on your left most of the way. You'll also pass White Oak Canyon on your left. When you get to Berry Hollow parking, you won't be able to go any further. Parking is limited. Get there early, don't block anyone in, don't take up two spots, and no fee required. Hike up the fire road and take your first right at the sign. In no time you'll be at Old Rag Shelter, then you'll reach Byrd's Nest Shelter, then it's just a quick jaunt to the summit from there.  Here's a Google Maps link to Berry Hollow parking: Berry Hollow

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Bobcat resting in the early morning, shot along the Old Rag summit trail. Recent wild life efforts have reintroduced several of the cats into the area and my wife and I got lucky to catch a shot of one as we headed up for a day of trad climbing. Photo by Heather and Greg Sudlow.
[Hide Photo] Bobcat resting in the early morning, shot along the Old Rag summit trail. Recent wild life efforts have reintroduced several of the cats into the area and my wife and I got lucky to catch a shot of…
Spencer working the first ascent of Charlatan 5.11D at Primary Crag
[Hide Photo] Spencer working the first ascent of Charlatan 5.11D at Primary Crag
Spencer working Charlatan 5.11D at Primary Crag
[Hide Photo] Spencer working Charlatan 5.11D at Primary Crag
View of Old Rag with several images merged.<br>
<br>
Photo: Dave Fiorucci
[Hide Photo] View of Old Rag with several images merged. Photo: Dave Fiorucci
Old rag after a snowstorm
[Hide Photo] Old rag after a snowstorm
Photo: Dave Fiorucci
[Hide Photo] Photo: Dave Fiorucci
Hikers atop Old Rag summit. Photo by Heather Sudlow.
[Hide Photo] Hikers atop Old Rag summit. Photo by Heather Sudlow.
Original topo drawn by Sandy Fleming
[Hide Photo] Original topo drawn by Sandy Fleming
Hiking out from Old Rag is always memorable.
[Hide Photo] Hiking out from Old Rag is always memorable.
The official trail head sign in Shenandoah National Park. A little over stated.
[Hide Photo] The official trail head sign in Shenandoah National Park. A little over stated.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Old Rag is a jewel in the rough. If you like granite, here's a quiet little piece of Joshua Tree tucked away in the hills of Virginia. This area is hard to beat if you like trad routes on good rock and don't want to drive to the New and fight the crowds from NoVa (Northern Virginia) on the weekends. Fall and Spring are great; summer is something you are better off not finding out for yourself-NEVER COME HERE IN SUMMER! Black flies, Stinging nettle FORESTS taller than you and thicker than the Rhodos in North Carolina, searing heat, hungry bears-the list goes on. Winter can be cold, but on nice days you can get sunny 50 degree days that remind you why it's good to be alive. If you live in Virginia and haven't been here yet, you are missing out. I spent ten weekends climbing here and still haven't touched the potential. Oh My God Dihedral, Banana Crack, Bushwhack Crack, Strawberry Fields, The The, and Mosaic are classics worthy of any amount of hiking. Eric Horst's guidebook is the best resource, although you'll still be bushwhacking and getting lost regardless. Once you've been there a few times it's easy to get where you're going and a fun challenge to find the more obscure walls. A great area with a good balance of moderates and a few testpieces; old school ethics make this a wilderness treat. Jul 17, 2007
ttriche
Grand Rapids, MI
[Hide Comment] You know, it's not *THAT* bad in the summer. I've climbed at the PATC wall in August and while it was sweaty work, it's a lot less crowded than Seneca or Great Falls... but if you have the choice, heading to North Carolina or the New would probably be a better idea. I think the Sunset Slabs are manageable in summer as well, if memory serves.

Climbing at the Reflector Oven or God's Area in summer would be a great way to get heat stroke, however. Those and the other gems at Old Rag are certainly best appreciated in winter. One of the more memorable trips I took up there was after an ice storm -- the trees near the summit looked like they were growing lead crystal place settings when the morning sun hit them. Quite likely the best winter climbing area anywhere near Washington, DC, but an adventurous spirit is required. Jul 24, 2007
Ross Purnell
Palmyra
[Hide Comment] Why does the overview say "beware of the directions in the Eric Horst book?" I followed those directions exactly and came to the Berry Hollow trailhead with no problems. Apr 9, 2009
Ed Wade
Hermann, MO
[Hide Comment] When I lived in Virginia I climbed at Old Rag only when the leaves were off the trees and when the days high temp was going to be 45 or above.If you plan on hiking up from Weakly Hollow it is wise to get there before 8am. The parking lot fills up quickly. It is better to hike in from Berry Hollow except if climbing anywhere beyond the approach to the God area (Whales Lip, Ridge Trail routes, etc.). If going to Old Rag for the 1st time try and make your way to the Reflector Oven. It is easy to see from the trail and once you are down there you can get your bearings. You will be able to see the corner and the left side of the Gods Area. The Horst guidebook is adequate so take it up there with you. If you are strictly a sport climber don't even think about making the hike. The real gems are the cracks. Bushwack and the Corner are as good as any climb anywhere. Try to enjoy the hike. It will make a world of difference. Aug 24, 2012
EPurpur
Charlottesville, VA
[Hide Comment] Found on 1/27/18: Black Oakley sunglasses case with prescription glasses and sunglasses inside. Send me an email epurpur@gmail.com if they belong to you.
-Erich Jan 28, 2018
[Hide Comment] are dogs allowed on this trail? Apr 13, 2018
Josh Rymer
Broomfield, CO
[Hide Comment] Only climbed at the summit crags but would recommend doubling on cams .5-2, and could not hurt having a #4.

If you slap in the GPS coordinates at the top of the page and park there, its an hour long approach if you hike quickly, not bad.

I went at the end of August and it was 85 degrees and didn't die so I am also of the mind that you could go during summer if you pay attention to weather. Aug 26, 2018
[Hide Comment] Wondering if anyone has climbed the ice slabs on the north side off the summit ridge. Hiked it two weeks ago and there looked like a couple of interesting pitches of WI2 to WI3. Anyone have any insight into these flows and if anyone has climbed 'em before? Feb 20, 2019
Gui Vendemiatti
Santa Cruz, CA
[Hide Comment] I found this blog that was also helpful: old-rag-guide.blogspot.com/. Does anyone know who are the authors? I'd like this to be incorporated into Rakkup too May 27, 2021
[Hide Comment] A lot of the information in that blog is wrong but a comprehensive guidebook is currently in the works. Jun 7, 2021
[Hide Comment] When can we expect the new guidebook? Old rag needs one. This place is awesome Nov 5, 2021
[Hide Comment] FYI starting March 2022 the NPS will require a day use permit for anyone parking at or traveling through the Old Rag summit - nps.gov/shen/planyourvisit/… Feb 8, 2022
[Hide Comment] Looks like the permit system is happening for 2023 also.

bit.ly/3HsH9bw Feb 23, 2023
[Hide Comment] Order the Old Rag Guidebook here! stores.sharpendbooks.com/ol… Nov 24, 2023