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Vermont

Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org DetailsDrop down

Description

For those who fall in love with Vermont, it's more than just local climbing. Vermont has long granite slabs, overhanging sport routes, beautiful schist and granite boulders, lakeside limestone, adventurous trad lines, and of course, world-class ice climbing. All in a setting that people drive hundreds of miles just to gawk at. And with many cliffs that you will never see another person at, it's our hidden gem of New England and it's hiding in plain sight. Vermont is no longer just a central location to the neighboring rock of the Adirondacks and the White Mountains, it stands proud with its own 5-star lines as good as any in the Northeast.

Vermont has a storied history of bold first ascents and adventure climbing. The climbing and bouldering here is on state, private, and LCO-owned land and while many of the access issues have been smoothed out through the tireless work of our local grassroots access group, CRAG-VT (www.cragvt.org), use care and check with locals before heading out.

So be it schist, granite, limestone, or ice, Vermont indeed has plenty to offer. Ranging from thuggishly steep to thin and technical, and from the bolted lines in Bolton Valley, to multi-pitch adventure climbing in the Northeast Kingdom and Smugglers' Notch. The climate and topography of Vermont offers visiting climbers a chance to sample a bit of everything, so long as you have a broad sense of adventure, don't mind getting be-knighted from time to time, and regularly like climbing in the face of black flies and bushwhack-themed adversity. Once past those minor hurdles (and after you drink the Kool-Aid!), you will, no doubt, find great pleasure in all that Vermont climbing has to offer.

Historical Note: Vermont and its climbing is on land stolen from the Abenaki, Mohawk, and Penacook indigenous people.

Getting There

Because our climbing is quite spread out, please refer to the area index for the best directions to the location you want to visit.

Areas

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

High Grade at Marshfield
[Hide Photo] High Grade at Marshfield
Colby on the arete of Terror Wolf
[Hide Photo] Colby on the arete of Terror Wolf
Good early season ambiance
[Hide Photo] Good early season ambiance
Andrew stretching it out on Traffic Jam
[Hide Photo] Andrew stretching it out on Traffic Jam
Dress to Press in late fall
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[35mm Film - Kodak ColorPlus 200]
[Hide Photo] Dress to Press in late fall [35mm Film - Kodak ColorPlus 200]
Andrew Messick Bouldering on Dojo in Smuggler's Notch - http://www.timetoclimb.com/bouldering/beat-the-heat-bouldering-in-smugglers-notch/
[Hide Photo] Andrew Messick Bouldering on Dojo in Smuggler's Notch - http://www.timetoclimb.com/bouldering/beat-the-heat-bouldering-in-smugglers-notch/
Andrew Messick on The Fin V2 - http://www.timetoclimb.com/bouldering/beat-the-heat-bouldering-in-smugglers-notch/
[Hide Photo] Andrew Messick on The Fin V2 - http://www.timetoclimb.com/bouldering/beat-the-heat-bouldering-in-smugglers-notch/
Samuel Hayden on "Wormhole" V12, Photo: Ralph Munn
[Hide Photo] Samuel Hayden on "Wormhole" V12, Photo: Ralph Munn
Driving Force
[Hide Photo] Driving Force
Vermont Areas
[Hide Photo] Vermont Areas

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Deer leap. There are a bunch of new shorter sport climbs down low and to the right as well as a few left of the lower tier mostly put up by Bob Gilito. Looks like Nick Hall freed Bag o tricks @ 10+ the Parking lot slab 5.5 is a good mixed beginner lead and just left of the approach trail right near the parking lot. Aug 28, 2011
[Hide Comment] Vermont's first rockclimbing guidebook is ready to ship in about a week. You can get them here: vermontrock.com/! Jul 26, 2012
[Hide Comment] Just got back from Creature Rock (www.windmillhillpinnacle.org) There are a lot of potential lines to be sent, let me know if anyone is up for cleaning some rock and putting up lines. Aug 4, 2012
balzano
Augusta, ME
[Hide Comment] Does anybody know if there are any lines up the chin at Camel's Hump. I hiked the Alpine trail up and there appeared to be an easy gully line and then some challenging possibilities on the steeper areas. Sep 18, 2012
balzano
Augusta, ME
[Hide Comment] I answered my Camel's Hump question already... sort of. I read the specific rules on the hand out sheet you get at the trailhead, also available online, and it says rock climbing is forbidden. My assumption is that they want the alpine zone undisturbed outside of the trail itself. My rebuttal is, the area with potential climbing is 100% exposed rock, and once topping out one can probably rock hop back over to the trail with minimal difficulty---if no rope is used, and one scrambles up the easy gully, is that the "rock climbing" they have in mind? I suppose my question is now this: "Are you required to stay on the trails at all times above the tree line at Camel's Hump?" I don't want to disturb anything I am not supposed to, but I don't want to miss out on an awesome little line either. Sep 18, 2012
[Hide Comment] Hey Balzano,

The summit area of Camel's Hump is one of only three areas of arctic / alpine tundra in the entire state. Please, please respect the guidelines the GMC and state naturalists have outlined and stay on the trail in these areas. Just because there is little obvious to you that might be impacted by scrambling doesn't mean it isn't there.

Cheers,

Derek Sep 19, 2012
ABH
St. Paul, MN
[Hide Comment] FYI to any rock-starved Vermont climbers: while hiking on the Long Trail this summer I noticed some pretty good quality rock on Laraway Mountain (which is near Waterville and Belvidere). There were four separate tiers that you pass when walking along the trail, with the lowest tier being probably the best. It looked like it would be best for sport--most of it was about 10-20 degrees overhanging, not huge amounts of places for gear. Googling "Laraway cliffs" shows you a few photos, though I thought the crag looked better in real life than it does in any of the photos! Sep 25, 2015
emmanuel crevier
Montreal, QC
[Hide Comment] as anybody looked at the cliff band near Fairfax ? Mar 11, 2017
[Hide Comment] Any info on that huge cliff near Rocky Dale above the Bristol Cliffs wilderness? I think its public land, no? it looks really good... you can get a great view of it from the intersection looking north.
Apologies if this is a dumb question, I am not from the area. Oct 22, 2017
[Hide Comment] Yep. It's called Dear Leap (not to be confused with the other Dear Leap on Sherburne Pass near Killington). Unfortunately, as good as it looks from afar, it's not particularly inspiring up close. The rock lacks many features or obvious lines and is much more ledgy than you'd think when looking from the road. What cracks there are have razor sharp edges...sharp enough to make you wonder if you're going to lose a finger if your feet slip when jamming. There have been a few routes done there over the years, but nothing I'd ever go back for, personally. The one exception is a rarely formed south facing 2 pitch grade 4 ice route which is superb. It follows a thin runnel in a left facing corner for a first pitch (rock gear and the occasional stubby) to a sweet belay ledge. You can then step left off the ledge on to a nice steep pillar to the top. It's hardly ever in, and when it does come in, it only stays in for a day or two, but it's great.

But don't take my word for it. Head up there and explore. It's a cool place to hike around for sure. Oct 25, 2017
[Hide Comment] Vermont climbers, I've begun working on the second edition of Tough Schist, which I'm hoping to publish in 2021. If you have any new route information, photos, beta, mistakes you found in the first edition or whatnot, I'd be grateful if you reached out. Email ( vermontrock.com/contact-us), Facebook (Vermont Rock), Instagram (@vermontrock802) are all good ways to reach me. Many thanks- Travis. Apr 8, 2020
Nol H
Vermont
[Hide Comment] Just noticed an old comment about a cliff near Fairfax. If it's the obvious one that can be seen near the interstate, I checked it out on the county tax maps a few months ago. The crag, being about a quarter mile long or so, actually is intersected by about 5 private properties. Very unfortunate, as it looks promising for rock and ice from the quick glances I've had while zooming down I-89. Nov 12, 2020
Kirstin Kelley
Burlington
[Hide Comment] I was on the Trail Around Middlebury today and came across a cliff that's bolted for climbing, but I can't find it in Tough Schist or here. Anyone know what it's called and where I can get more info? It's a bit overhung, pretty long, and just to the north of town, close to Belden Falls. Looks fun Apr 19, 2021
John Dawkins
Calais, VT
[Hide Comment] Alladin's Ladder at Marshfield Ledge.

Been working this route with Edge Fuentes the last couple of weekends. We have decided to abandon trying this climb since there's an approximately 15 feet by 6 feet by 2 feet piece of granite part way broken off, at the top of the face, below the capping roof. If it fell off, rather when it falls off, it would go directly down the climb and continue to the ground, a total of about 100 meters. The piece of rock is already part way broken off and is hinging down to the left, the crack it has opened is used for gear, and is climbed to get to the top-out mantel. At the base of the piece there is an wide undercling which also takes gear, this also shows how the whole thing is separate from the face it is resting on. There is a small tree about 5 inches in diameter growing out directly under the piece, and it looks like if that were cut off at the base the piece of rock might go, the piece is currently resting on it. Nov 7, 2022