All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > Onion Creek

The Trojan Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map This is our best guess at this area's location.
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Routes in The Trojan

L › R R › L A › Z

Everyman's Endless Edge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A1+

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GPS:	38.6962, -109.3137 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	6,341 total · 29/month
Shared By:	James Garrett on Nov 21, 2006
Admins:	slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

Being on a ridge, this route could be exposed to some wind, but the advantage is that the rock quality tends to be very good because of that location. The EEE ascends and "enchains" about 5-6 little towers culminating on the main and highest tower, which we dubbed The Trojan. This highest Tower had been ascended before, presumably from the much shorter and easier north side. Despite extensive research, we were unable to later discover what the First ascentionists called this higher Tower. We will certainly agree to the original name if/when we are contacted.

Getting There

This is from Eric Bjornstad's Desert Rock: Turn between mile marker #20 and #21 at a sign reading "Fisher Valley Ranch". The road will cross Onion Creek 16 times. About 0.5 miles past the bridge which crosses a deep, narrow gorge and as the South Face of the Titan comes into view to the North, EEE is in plain view in the foreground between the Titan and the road. The approach to the beginning of the route up the West Ridge begins out of a small gully aimed right at the Titan requires a mere 15 minutes.