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(03) The Franks

New Mexico > Albuquerque Area > Palomas Peak

Description

This area is named for the German Frankenjura because that is where you will wish you were once you attempt these sub-par routes. 

** All routes are equipped with steel lowering hardware. Please avoid toproping through the lowering hardware as both gates of the hooks are oriented facing forward and don't offer sufficient protection for toproping. Instead, build your own anchor with personal gear and have only the last person lower off the fixed lowering hardware.

Getting There

This area is immediately after "The Slab", which is the ultra steep and overhung wall just past the "Entrance Area"

Routes from Left to Right

5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 1
● Funky Junkie
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 0
● Monkey Man
Sport
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
 0
● Foust Robinson
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 0
● Beavis
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 0
● Crash Test Dummy
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 4
● Entertaining Mike Tyson
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 2
● Dark Dreams
Sport
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
 1
● Open Project
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 0
● Junkhead
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 0
● Love Have Love
Sport
5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
 0
● Wooden Jesus
Sport
5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b PG13
 1
● Sick Man
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Funky Junkie
 1
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Monkey Man
 0
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
● Foust Robinson
 0
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c Sport
● Beavis
 0
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
● Crash Test Dummy
 0
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
● Entertaining Mike Tyson
 4
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
● Dark Dreams
 2
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
● Open Project
 1
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c Sport
● Junkhead
 0
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Love Have Love
 0
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
● Wooden Jesus
 0
5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b Sport
● Sick Man
 1
5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b PG13 Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Sick Man 5.14b Photo By Dan West
[Hide Photo] Sick Man 5.14b Photo By Dan West
Looking west from the middle of The Franks wall
[Hide Photo] Looking west from the middle of The Franks wall
Start of The Franks wall
[Hide Photo] Start of The Franks wall
Start of the Franks Wall
[Hide Photo] Start of the Franks Wall

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

DaveT
Albuquerque
[Hide Comment] Does anyone have info on the route between Dark Dreams and Junkhead? It's listed as "5.13 project" in the Jackson book (also mentioned in the online guide). It's basically a boulder problem on thin vertical pockets to a jug to a crack.

Nov 22, 2013