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Oobleck Tower Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Oobleck Tower

L › R R › L A › Z

Core-shot T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

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Elevation:	5,250 ft	1,600 m
GPS:	38.55994, -109.69738 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	3,480 total · 15/month
Shared By:	Sam Lightner, Jr. on Nov 11, 2006 · Updates
Admins:	slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas. Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.

Description

This sticks out over the widest part of Day Canyon. The route we chose up it is the obvious crack system on the Northeast side, in a slot, and gets very little sun. Another spire, attached on the northwest side and looking very much like a small version of Lost Arrow Spire in Yosemite, has not been climbed. As it has no crack system to its summit and the rock quality is dubious at best, we left it alone. (A route does exist up a splitter that ends halfway.)
The rock on Oobleck is very "Arches" in quality. ITs powdery, soft, and you look for the biggest huecos for your feet. The summit is nice and the views are great, but its sort-of 1 star climbing to a 3 star summit. Perhaps its greatest trait is that the tower is fairly easy to reach, but there is NOBODY around.

Getting There

Drive out 313 and take the Dead Horse Point Road towards Longs Canyon. From the junction of 313 and this road, go 2.1 miles and turn left onto a rougher road. Follow this for about 2 miles, passing the dry well head parking area for The Mission. When you've gone about 2 miles from the main road you will probably have to park as it degenerates... don't worry, driving much further won't really get you closer. From this point walk north by northeast towards the rim of Day Canyon. The furthest promitory into the Canyon ends with Oobleck Tower. A slot just northeast of the tower allows a descent to the base and down into the widest part of the canyon. There is a cairn at the spot you can drop into the slot from.