PRINT: Rock Climbing in Gannett Peak, Wind River Range

Gannett Peak

Wyoming > Wind River Range > Dinwoody Glacier Area.

Description

Gannett Peak is the highest peak in the Wind River Range and the state of Wyoming.
It is identified by it's broad snow capped summit.
The peak is flanked by five glaciers: Dinwoody, Gooseneck and Gannett on the east. Mammoth and Minor glaciers on the west.
The first ascent was made in 1922 by Arthur Tate and Floyd Stahlnaker.
The Gooseneck Route is the most popular.

Getting There

Several approach trails exist. The Gannett and Fremont Peak North USGS quads are most useful in determining the most suitable approach route to your destination.
The Glacier Trail, from Trail Lake Ranch is quite popular (23 miles).

Routes from Left to Right

3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Mod. Snow 79 ● Gooseneck Glacier Route Trad, Snow, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 4 ● Northeast Ridge Trad, Alpine
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a AI1-2 Steep Snow 12 ● South East Couloir Ice, Snow, Alpine
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow 2 ● Wells Creek Approach Snow, Alpine
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Easy Snow 3 ● West Face Trad, Snow, Alpine

● Gooseneck Glacier Route

3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine

● Northeast Ridge

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine

● South East Couloir

3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a AI1-2 Steep Snow Ice, Snow, Alpine

● Wells Creek Approach

4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow Snow, Alpine

● West Face

4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Easy Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Dawn from the Dinwoody.

Gannett from the Dinwoody Valley.

Gannett sunset.

Sunrise from Bonney Pass

Gannett from Bonney Pass, summer '77

Dinwoody Glacier April trip report: http://rjohnasay.blogspot.com/2013/04/wy-wind-rivers-titcomb-basingannett.html

Tony Bubb and Company Ascend Gannet Peak in 1993 or so. Photo by Tony Bubb.

A giant canister and small sign can be found at the summit.

Gannett Peak, late July on a low snow year.

Base of Southeast Couloir, near the large moat. February 2016. Note that this is a low snow year.

Kicking steps up Gooseneck Couloir, February 2016

Gannett from Dinwoody Peak

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Conor Raney
Pinedale, WY

Would anyone have a problem if I added a different approach to Gannett Peak? Oct 29, 2010

J. Albers
Colorado

Go for it. Post up! Oct 29, 2010

Kevin Stearns

My wife and myself would like to do gannett in middle July. I know we could handle the approach but we do not have any glacier experience. Would it be reasonable to attempt it anyway. Apr 15, 2011

Conor Raney
Pinedale, WY

Hey there,

There's still going to be A LOT of snow this year in the range in mid July. We've had a long winter! :( So it's gonna be a messy approach. BUT, as a local I would say it is definitely managable. :) Apr 15, 2011

Katie Moore-Drougas

Hi there! Does anyone have some info on how the standard approach from the west is looking right now (pole creek to titcomb)? My best friend and I are planning to climb it in a few weeks and was hoping to get any/all intel! Thanks in advance:) Jul 9, 2017

Wyatt Frakes
Joshua Tree, CA

Planning to hit Gannett Peak with a couple of friends in late June, maybe early to July to take advantage of those snow bridges. We don't have any mountaineering experience so we've been doing a bunch of research on it lately, but I'm hoping the snow bridges will eliminate our major concerns with the 'schrunds. Any thoughts? Feb 7, 2020