PRINT: Rock Climbing in Observatory Dome, Lumpy Ridge

Observatory Dome

Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge

Access Issue: 2024 Partial Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/21/24 Details

From the Denver Post 7/21/24: some of the raptor closures have been lifted, officials announced.

Upper & Lower Twin Owls, Rock One, The Book and access trail, Bookmark, and Left Book were opened based on a park new release.

Closures have been extended for Thunder Buttress, access trail, The Parish, Cathedral Wall.

Closures above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond trail have been extended.

Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)

Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.

Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!

Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:

Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock

Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.

All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.

Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…

When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.

Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.

Description

Observatory Dome is the next major rock uphill and slightly west of the Pear (apart from the obscure and lower Sunshine Buttress), so named because of the huge, right-facing dihedral located smack dab in the middle of its rounded south face, lending a striking resemblance to its namesake. It's one of Lumpy's least-climbed crags, due in part to its steep bushwhacking approach and lack of routes, quality or otherwise. As of Bernard Gillett's 2001 guidebook (currently the most up-to-date) there were only four routes gracing its rough, slabby, lichen-covered walls, and I haven't heard of anyone scheming for a first ascent lately. Despite this, it might not be a bad place to go if you're looking for a 5.6 or 5.7 on a busy day (when ISN'T White Whale or Chrome-Plated busy?). You're guaranteed to have it all to yourself, even on a July weekend.

Getting There

Take the trail to the base of the Pear and bushwhack uphill and to the left until you find the base. Use the prominent, central dihedral as a landmark for finding most of the routes. The main descent is to the west, but you can descend east as well.

Raptor issues

With confirmation with RMNP, this rock is not subject to raptor closures.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 1 ● Ryan's Song Trad, TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 0 ● Rain Man Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 2 ● Observatory Trad 3 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 1 ● Looks Can Be Deceiving Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 2 ● Deep Impact Trad