Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Darth Vader

New Hampshire > Rumney

Description

At the cross-roads of many of Rumney's upper crags, the compact upper and lower walls of Darth Vader offer routes ranging from 5.4 to 5.12. This crag is a popular destination for intermediate climbers and a heavily traveled warm up area.

The main attraction to this crag are arguably THE two best 5.9s at Rumney: Yoda (5.9) and Obi-Won-Ryobi (5.9+). These side-by-side climbs at "Lower 'Vader" offer stellar moves and are literally right off of the trail en route to Waimea and the other upper crags. If there is not a line for these climbs, it is hard to find excuse not to run up them! Lower Vader is also home the crag's only 5.12s, which are seldom done and often overlooked.

Upper Vader is a good choice for intermediates and groups, as there is a 5.4, 5.6, 5.7, and 5.8 next to each other on the far right end of the wall. The left end of Upper Vader offers two short and pumpy climbs: Three Easy Pieces (5.11a) and Easter Squal (5.10d).

this video has most of the routes at Darth Vadar on it.
youtube.com/watch?v=9x5nmid…

Getting There

Park in the far lot, walk down the road, start hiking at the woods at utility pole #37. Follow engraved wooden signs for "Waimea" or "Darth Vader." Hike up the progressively steepening trail while passing a few large boulders on the left side of the trail. The first crag you get to will be Lower Vader. To get to Upper Vader, walk to climber's right of Lower Vader and take a left up a steep trail. Take the next Left possible, which may or may not be obscured by a fallen tree.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 18
The Prawn
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 206
The Sand People
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 67
Darth Vader
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 542
Yoda
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 479
Oby-won Ryobi
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 78
Jedi Mind Tricks
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 24
The Caged
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 18
Storm Troopers
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 1
Spaceballs: The Rock Climb
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Prawn
 18
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The Sand People
 206
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Darth Vader
 67
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Yoda
 542
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Oby-won Ryobi
 479
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Jedi Mind Tricks
 78
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
The Caged
 24
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Storm Troopers
 18
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Spaceballs: The Rock Climb
 1
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

chilling in the vadar cave
[Hide Photo] chilling in the vadar cave
cliping a bomber piece on Yoda...
[Hide Photo] cliping a bomber piece on Yoda...
some dork in a nice kneebar on Yoda
[Hide Photo] some dork in a nice kneebar on Yoda
Darth Vader routes...
[Hide Photo] Darth Vader routes...

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
[Hide Comment] i did a fun link up today starting on Yoda and finishing on Darth Vader... I thought it took the best parts of the two routes and was more sustained... Jul 2, 2008
M Sprague
New England
[Hide Comment] The approach directions should really be changed to going up the Short Cut trail, rather than walking up the road. It is faster and eliminates friction with local drivers May 22, 2010
Tyler Newcomb
New York, New York | Boston
[Hide Comment] As of probably October, and probably still there is a lot of large loose rpck out to the left, so use the right side to hike to the back. Dec 26, 2012
M Sprague
New England
[Hide Comment] Are you reffering to the trail, Tyler? Dec 26, 2012
Tyler Newcomb
New York, New York | Boston
[Hide Comment] Actually, I meant a little off trail where ther is also slippery moss, but yes right neer there Jan 25, 2013
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
[Hide Comment] here is a video showing ascents of, Darth Vadar 5.9, Jedi Mind Tricks 5.12b, The Caged 5.12d, Storm Troopers 5.12c and the link up Space Balls 5.12b/c... enjoy
youtube.com/watch?v=9x5nmid… Apr 9, 2013
Stephane Desbiens
sherbrooke
[Hide Comment] Is the crag stay dry on rain? May 19, 2016
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
[Hide Comment] There isn't a route that is entirely dry in the rain here. The cave gives great cover but the latter part of the caves routes are all subject to the elements. The cliff gets sun and dries out fast but seeping can occur (e.g., lower half of Yoda). May 20, 2016