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Darth Vader
New Hampshire
> Rumney
Description
At the cross-roads of many of Rumney's upper crags, the compact upper and lower walls of Darth Vader offer routes ranging from 5.4 to 5.12. This crag is a popular destination for intermediate climbers and a heavily traveled warm up area.
The main attraction to this crag are arguably THE two best 5.9s at Rumney: Yoda (5.9) and Obi-Won-Ryobi (5.9+). These side-by-side climbs at "Lower 'Vader" offer stellar moves and are literally right off of the trail en route to Waimea and the other upper crags. If there is not a line for these climbs, it is hard to find excuse not to run up them! Lower Vader is also home the crag's only 5.12s, which are seldom done and often overlooked.
Upper Vader is a good choice for intermediates and groups, as there is a 5.4, 5.6, 5.7, and 5.8 next to each other on the far right end of the wall. The left end of Upper Vader offers two short and pumpy climbs: Three Easy Pieces (5.11a) and Easter Squal (5.10d).
Park in the far lot, walk down the road, start hiking at the woods at utility pole #37. Follow engraved wooden signs for "Waimea" or "Darth Vader." Hike up the progressively steepening trail while passing a few large boulders on the left side of the trail. The first crag you get to will be Lower Vader. To get to Upper Vader, walk to climber's right of Lower Vader and take a left up a steep trail. Take the next Left possible, which may or may not be obscured by a fallen tree.
[Hide Comment] i did a fun link up today starting on Yoda and finishing on Darth Vader... I thought it took the best parts of the two routes and was more sustained...
Jul 2, 2008
[Hide Comment] The approach directions should really be changed to going up the Short Cut trail, rather than walking up the road. It is faster and eliminates friction with local drivers
May 22, 2010
[Hide Comment] As of probably October, and probably still there is a lot of large loose rpck out to the left, so use the right side to hike to the back.
Dec 26, 2012
[Hide Comment] here is a video showing ascents of, Darth Vadar 5.9, Jedi Mind Tricks 5.12b, The Caged 5.12d, Storm Troopers 5.12c and the link up Space Balls 5.12b/c... enjoy youtube.com/watch?v=9x5nmid…Apr 9, 2013
[Hide Comment] There isn't a route that is entirely dry in the rain here. The cave gives great cover but the latter part of the caves routes are all subject to the elements. The cliff gets sun and dries out fast but seeping can occur (e.g., lower half of Yoda).
May 20, 2016
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
New England
New York, New York | Boston
New England
New York, New York | Boston
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
youtube.com/watch?v=9x5nmid… Apr 9, 2013
sherbrooke
New Hampshire