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Palisades State Park

S Dakota > E Side SD

Description

The Split Rock Creek splits a band of Sioux Quartz just outside the town of Garretson, South Dakota, making for lots of climbing right off the water. Loads of picnickers will be strolling through the area during the summer. A good place for locals not really a "destination" climbing crag as the rock isn't all that tall or exciting. Expect humid summers with lots of bugs and mosquitoes at times because of its proximity to the river. The rock is currently the only rock-climbing crag in Eastern South Dakota.

The rock is not very good for friction almost has a glassy feel but gets a wonderful pump due to the crimps and slopers. This place is good for experienced trad climbers as well as TRing. There are never-ending crack systems throughout the park. Great face climbs are Slandeross (5.12), Debuant Farmers (5.12), King Olof (5.10), Glimmer (5.10+), Never Say Never (5.10), and Henry Aaron (5.7). The area saw bouldering development in 2009 and still holds potential for new problems. Mike Madsen, Jon Marek, Sam Nicolai and others developed many great problems. Some of the great Boulder problems to check out are Contrivance (V5), Necessary Contrivance (V4), I Seam Stumped (V3), Lithium CT (V2), and Head Hunters (V2). The area was developed by the likes of Greg Fossum, Gary Johnson, Jim Slichter, Vern Olsen, Dave Reinke, and Tom Wells. Fossum, Reinke, and Wells published a guidebook in 1983 which is no longer in print where many of the names differ from those here.

Getting There

10 miles north of Interstate 90, off the Brandon exit (Exit 406). 25495 485th Avenue, Garretson, SD 57030-6117

here is a map of the whole area:https://gfp.sd.gov/userdocs/palisades-campground.pdf

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Overview
[Hide Photo] Overview
Looking at King Rock mid-August 2014
[Hide Photo] Looking at King Rock mid-August 2014

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Conor Raney
Pinedale, WY
[Hide Comment] Happy to see people start to explore this area more for bouldering. Want to get back and try some of the new stuff. Mike M? has been putting up a hard problems to attract a little more interest. I see him out there more than any other climber. Seems very knowledgeable and very friendly. I don't personally know him. He has been adding really good routes wish more did as well, I know it's hard but shoot, it'd be nice to have more hard problems in the vicinity. Nov 12, 2010
[Hide Comment] Are there any sport routes in this area? Feb 8, 2011
Tane Owens
Las Vegas, NV
[Hide Comment] It seems like there have been a lot of climbing additions to the park in the past few years. Is there any chance someone with current knowledge of the area can make additions or updates to the beta/park overview photo? This would definitely help me around the park, and I'm sure others would benefit from it as well. May 26, 2012
trisgo
Omaha, NE (at the moment)
[Hide Comment] I don't know, I guess it comes down to personal preference. I'd take Palisades over Blue Mounds anyday. There isn't as much climbing, but hearing the running water and being in the serene (I'm horrible at spelling)setting rather then a field at Blue Mounds is well worth the trade off for me. I usually go up there for the weekend and do Palisades on Saturday and Blue Mounds on Sunday. Sep 27, 2012
trisgo
Omaha, NE (at the moment)
[Hide Comment] Tried to make a better map based on descriptions, but I could be way off. Don't quote me. If you have corrections, shout 'em out.

PS description
Aug 21, 2015
[Hide Comment] Are there specific cams/nuts needed to top rope the 5.8-5.10 routes? I have never been to Palisades before and can't afford a full rack. Thanks in advance! Mar 7, 2017
Derek S
Minnesota
[Hide Comment] Hey, Zach. The routes here can be set up with a set of nuts and some webbing, with the exception of the freestanding towers, which need to be led. Mar 7, 2017
[Hide Comment] Thank you much! I'm looking forward to visiting this weekend. Mar 13, 2017
Jordon
Rochester, MN
[Hide Comment] I was in Sioux Falls a week ago and saw that there was a guide book out. Anyone seen it available online? A google search came up empty handed. May 18, 2017
Jeff J.
Sioux Falls, SD
[Hide Comment] HamBone
The guide can be found locally at the Great Outdoor Store, Last Stop CD Shop, and from a guy who drives an aging silver Subaru w/ stickers on it. Or email palisadesguidebook@gmail.com May 18, 2017
[Hide Comment] There seems to be a small handful of Boulder routes listed on here, but there has to be more that are not documented yet. Does anyone have suggestions on where to look for more boulders?
I would love to Trad Climb, but I have not learned how to yet... its on my long list of skills I need to learn! Aug 15, 2017
Jascha Muller
Stellenbosch, Western Cape
[Hide Comment] I guess its prohibited to bolt here? Since the lack of sport routes? Aug 27, 2018
Jeff J.
Sioux Falls, SD
[Hide Comment] Yes. Bolting is not allowed. Plan on trad anchors. If you lead on gear, know that any marginal placements are likely trash since the rock is very slick. Know how to place awesome gear and lead well below your ability. I have witnessed gear (even cams) pulling when people have whipped. Aug 10, 2019