The Split Rock Creek splits a band of Sioux Quartz just outside the town of Garretson, South Dakota, making for lots of climbing right off the water. Loads of picnickers will be strolling through the area during the summer. A good place for locals not really a "destination" climbing crag as the rock isn't all that tall or exciting. Expect humid summers with lots of bugs and mosquitoes at times because of its proximity to the river. The rock is currently the only rock-climbing crag in Eastern South Dakota.
The rock is not very good for friction almost has a glassy feel but gets a wonderful pump due to the crimps and slopers. This place is good for experienced trad climbers as well as TRing. There are never-ending crack systems throughout the park. Great face climbs are Slandeross (5.12), Debuant Farmers (5.12), King Olof (5.10), Glimmer (5.10+), Never Say Never (5.10), and Henry Aaron (5.7). The area saw bouldering development in 2009 and still holds potential for new problems. Mike Madsen, Jon Marek, Sam Nicolai and others developed many great problems. Some of the great Boulder problems to check out are Contrivance (V5), Necessary Contrivance (V4), I Seam Stumped (V3), Lithium CT (V2), and Head Hunters (V2). The area was developed by the likes of Greg Fossum, Gary Johnson, Jim Slichter, Vern Olsen, Dave Reinke, and Tom Wells. Fossum, Reinke, and Wells published a guidebook in 1983 which is no longer in print where many of the names differ from those here.
10 miles north of Interstate 90, off the Brandon exit (Exit 406). 25495 485th Avenue, Garretson, SD 57030-6117
here is a map of the whole area:https://gfp.sd.gov/userdocs/palisades-campground.pdf
Pinedale, WY
Las Vegas, NV
Omaha, NE (at the moment)
Omaha, NE (at the moment)
Minnesota
Rochester, MN
Sioux Falls, SD
The guide can be found locally at the Great Outdoor Store, Last Stop CD Shop, and from a guy who drives an aging silver Subaru w/ stickers on it. Or email palisadesguidebook@gmail.com May 18, 2017
I would love to Trad Climb, but I have not learned how to yet... its on my long list of skills I need to learn! Aug 15, 2017
Stellenbosch, Western Cape
Sioux Falls, SD