Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Routes in The Main Cliff
|
Ali Babbler S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Little Big Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Supersize Me S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Working Man S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Fat Man S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Fear of Abraham T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Millenium Falcon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Gunboat Diplomacy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Shiskebob T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
|
|
Skewer, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
|
|
Beat Junkie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
|
|
Space Shuttle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Sky Lab (incomplete) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R |
|
|
Rap Echo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Rocket Fuel S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
|
|
Rocket Boy S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
|
|
Rocket Man S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
|
|
Thin Man S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
|
|
As The World Burns S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Via Ferrata S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Thing, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Steel Curtain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Peanut Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Underdog S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Simon Bar Sinister S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Sweet Polly Purebred S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Know Ethics S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Iron Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Goldbug S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Goldmember S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Thang, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Goldbug Finish S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Gold Digger S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Rock de Jours T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
|
|
Rock Du Jours Direct S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Going Nuts S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
| Elevation: | 806 ft | 246 m |
| GPS: |
43.80249, -71.83593 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
|
| Page Views: | 202,632 total · 897/month | |
| Shared By: | Jay Knower on Oct 16, 2006 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Access Issue: Upper pitches of Main Cliff and Main Cliff Right were closed 5/2/25 for peregrine nesting (Summit is back open)! Signs were posted but may not be obvious.
Details
Description
Main Cliff is the tallest wall at Rumney and also home to some of the best routes. Whereas most of the other cliffs at Rumney are composed of schist, Main Cliff is distinguished by a band of quartzite stretching across it's middle. This rock has many of the characteristics of the best sandstone: fine grained, angular, and bullet hard.
Most climbs on the Main Cliff proper ascend distinct corners and aretes, and the climbing feels a bit more "trad" than at other cliffs. Though the routes can be long and pumpy, the different rock presents various technical challenges. Insecure stems, burly laybacks, and technical smearing can be found on almost all of the routes on the center of the cliff. Various outlying walls also comprise the Main Cliff area.
Main Cliff is large and complex. Ward Smith's guidebook is de rigueur for navigating this area.
It was brought to my attention that the rockfall warning on the Main Cliff Right description could do well here as well.
ATTENTION: In March, 2010, there was a massive rockfall at Main Cliff. It probably originated above Iron Man, Gold Digger, or Rock du Jours. Be extremely careful when hanging out at the base near these routes. This area is very unstable. The possibility of another rockfall appears significant. Routes such as Rock Du Jours, Gold digger and others in that vicinity are of greatest concern.
Most climbs on the Main Cliff proper ascend distinct corners and aretes, and the climbing feels a bit more "trad" than at other cliffs. Though the routes can be long and pumpy, the different rock presents various technical challenges. Insecure stems, burly laybacks, and technical smearing can be found on almost all of the routes on the center of the cliff. Various outlying walls also comprise the Main Cliff area.
Main Cliff is large and complex. Ward Smith's guidebook is de rigueur for navigating this area.
It was brought to my attention that the rockfall warning on the Main Cliff Right description could do well here as well.
ATTENTION: In March, 2010, there was a massive rockfall at Main Cliff. It probably originated above Iron Man, Gold Digger, or Rock du Jours. Be extremely careful when hanging out at the base near these routes. This area is very unstable. The possibility of another rockfall appears significant. Routes such as Rock Du Jours, Gold digger and others in that vicinity are of greatest concern.
Getting There
From the second parkinglot, walk uphill into the woods. Follow the sign to Main Cliff. The large wall you come to is Main Cliff Center. Outlying areas to left and to the right.*Most of the Main Cliff is seasonally closed for peregrine nesting, usually April through July. Occasionally the cliff is reopened early if the birds nest elsewhere or the eggs don't hatch. Look for blaze-orange signs on the kiosk in the parking lot.
2019 signs put up on 4/22/19. Only upper half of main cliff is closed. All first pitchers are open.
2019 signs put up on 4/22/19. Only upper half of main cliff is closed. All first pitchers are open.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Main Cliff
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Sun Angles Details:
Weather Averages
|
High
|
Low
|
|
Precip
|
Days w Precip
|
Prime Climbing Season
| J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D |
| J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D |
Photos
All Photos Within The Main Cliff
Most Popular · Newest · RandomMore About The Main Cliff
Printer-FriendlyWhat's New
Guidebooks (4)
33 Comments