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Main Wall

Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Northern Gorge > Muscle Beach
Warning Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest. DetailsDrop down

Description

The Main Wall is where all the roped climbing exists. It is mostly south facing with some west facing rock.

Getting There

Due to the USFS stream rehab project the original approach to Muscle Beach has been disrupted.  A new, alternate approach is better and shorter.

From the camping area on the right side of 9b (across from the port-a-johns) keep driving to the next (narrow) pull off on the right.  There is a popular camping spot between the road and the creek at this pull off.  The best approach for Minas Tirith is the logging road on the left (west) side of the road.

To get to Muscle Beach cross the creek in this area and hike straight up the hill through some low boulders until you hit an old, flat logging road.  Take it to the left (north) until the first switchback and take it back to the right.  When the road levels off and there are some large boulders to your left, continue along the logging road for a few more steps and locate a faint trail on the left and follow it up to the SW corner of the main cliff in the vicinity of Close Encounters With a Wench, or continue on the logging road around to the south slopes below the main cliff and wander up wherever.

Routes from Left to Right

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 2
Punch Myself
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 7
Carnivorous
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 4
Casual Corner
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 6
Close Encounters with a Wench
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 2
Woman Trouble
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 23
Muscle Shoals
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 1
Coup De Graus
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 9
Rock Rash
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 19
Rocket Man
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 1
Jaws
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 16
Surfin' With Grizz
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 17
When Gravity Fails
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 24
Mama Told Me Not To Come
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 19
Grand Illusion
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
Bloody Fingers
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Punch Myself
 2
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Carnivorous
 7
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Casual Corner
 4
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Close Encounters with a Wench
 6
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Woman Trouble
 2
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Muscle Shoals
 23
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Coup De Graus
 1
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Rock Rash
 9
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Rocket Man
 19
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Jaws
 1
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Surfin' With Grizz
 16
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
When Gravity Fails
 17
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
Mama Told Me Not To Come
 24
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Grand Illusion
 19
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Bloody Fingers
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Starting the final overhanging roof crack (location of loose flake marked in yellow)
[Hide Photo] Starting the final overhanging roof crack (location of loose flake marked in yellow)